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EXHAUST
Jul 31, 2011 15:24:36 GMT -5
Post by spyderdriver on Jul 31, 2011 15:24:36 GMT -5
what is wrong with taking off the heater box's and making myself a nice big exhaust system?
all the ones on JCW are alot of money, don't do what i want muffler wise, and mess up your tin.
and have any of you made your own headers/exhaust?
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EXHAUST
Jul 31, 2011 17:04:03 GMT -5
Post by Dan MacMillan on Jul 31, 2011 17:04:03 GMT -5
I have made my own but retain the heat exchangers as they help cool the heads.
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EXHAUST
Jul 31, 2011 17:23:26 GMT -5
Post by spyderdriver on Jul 31, 2011 17:23:26 GMT -5
do you have any photos i could look at and copy?
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 1, 2011 7:14:34 GMT -5
Sorry no pics. Most of my stuff is type 4 based, on my 74 Thing {type 1 with heat} I modified a beetle muffler by sealing off the stock tail pipes and added new ones at the ends of the muffler that come up and exit through the bumper. On my type 4 based double cab I retained everything up to the muffler, then used a resonator and simple tailpipe out the side. On my Beetle {type 4 based} I came off the heat exchangers, then merged into one pipe heading towards the front pass side, at the trans it crosses to the drivers side using a flex pipe {to absorb engine twist} then heads forward to the "A" pillar where it enters the left running board. Inside the running board is a resonator that dumps into an expansion chamber that is part of the running board. This then exits in front of the left rear wheel. It is about 14 feet long from eng to tail. Pipe is 1 3/4". All works well as back pressure is still below 2 psi.
Small pipe and lots of bends increase back pressure. use a backpressure gauge at 2000 rpm to check your work.
Lots of companies sell a 4 into one header that bolts onto the heat exchangers. If you use one of these then you can design your own from there.
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Post by spyderdriver on Aug 7, 2011 2:22:47 GMT -5
allso my intake warmer is clogged. dos this effect the way the car runs much?
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 7, 2011 5:30:37 GMT -5
allso my intake warmer is clogged. dos this effect the way the car runs much? Yes, when you run a single carb it needs it to warm the fuel and keep it atomized. Without it you will run into carb icing. Icing can happen at high ambient temps if the humidity is right. It will cause your engine to stall. Restarting will be impossible until the carb warms up and the fu starts flowing again. |
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EXHAUST
Aug 25, 2011 21:40:53 GMT -5
Post by mj on Aug 25, 2011 21:40:53 GMT -5
I have made my own but retain the heat exchangers as they help cool the heads. They do definitely shield the heads from hard infrared heat. I run a catalyctic heater in the cold weather, and straight 4:1 headers wrapped in carbon-fiberglass wrap to defeat the heat problem. I can make a hard run and literally hold the headers - that's how cool they stay. Beware, however, because where the wrapping ends gets red-hot and if they extend far enough can set your pants on fire walking across them. On my stone stock 1972 bug icing can be a problem. To complicate matters, I got a new muffler with the heat riser pipe on the wrong side.  Mexican crap, but it still works once you set it at the right depth. |
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Mexican crap, but it still works once you set it at the right depth.