ivenn
New Member
Posts: 11
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Post by ivenn on Jul 18, 2011 11:05:21 GMT -5
Hello all, I'm new here as I just picked up a 69 GT for my wife who fell in love with it at first sight. I've been doing some searching around on this site to figure out what exhaust will fit and I see a few responses that ask to have a picture of the motor, so I'm attaching it. Can anyone tell me what year/type of bug I should be looking for to match the right exhaust? The picture isn't great so let me know if you need some other detail. Thanks in advance for any help. Attachments:
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 18, 2011 12:41:26 GMT -5
Its really based on the year of the motor. Post the serial number (located at the base of the alt/generator stand) and that way we can start picking something out.
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ivenn
New Member
Posts: 11
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Post by ivenn on Jul 18, 2011 15:19:22 GMT -5
I don't suppose the number is stamped anywhere else is it? It appears the engine number was ground off this engine (which probably isn't great news for me). Attaching picture after trying to clean up the base for a better view. Attachments:
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Post by smyrnaguy on Jul 18, 2011 18:40:58 GMT -5
Yep. Someone at the chop shop ground it off. It's hard to tell from the pics what year/case type that engine is. It looks like I can barely make out the letter A at the beginning of the engine code. That would mean it is a 1971 or newer, probably dual port heads and more than likely at least 1600cc. No telling what size pistons and jugs are in it.
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Post by smyrnaguy on Jul 18, 2011 18:42:54 GMT -5
Of course I might be way off.
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 18, 2011 21:28:08 GMT -5
Looks like a single port intake in the big picture. It's just barely visible on the right hand side. Gary Hammond,   |
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Post by Jeff Lande on Jul 19, 2011 6:42:22 GMT -5
Isn't type-1 exhaust just type-1 exhaust? Or is there a difference on the exhaust between single port and dual port heads? I thought they were the same...
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Post by big bob on Jul 19, 2011 7:34:04 GMT -5
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 19, 2011 8:11:31 GMT -5
Your engine has heat exchangers so if you plan on retaining them you have to buy a heat exchanger compatible exhaust. You also need the pre-heat tubes.
Try any of the major suppliers (CIP1, Moores, CB Performance and go with a trype 1 exhaust. You will be fine. cermic coated is a nice option if you have the $$.
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ivenn
New Member
Posts: 11
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Post by ivenn on Jul 19, 2011 8:29:19 GMT -5
You guys are awesome, thanks a ton for the information. Now I have a couple dumb questions. The heat exchangers are just for getting heat to the cabin right? They don't cool the engine at all so if I eliminate them, I just can't have heat anymore? Also if I eliminate them, do I need to cap anything or block any ports or can it just be taken off? What did you guys mean by single port/ dual port? Is that the number of exhaust ports exiting the head, or is that something internal?
Thanks again for all the help, I'll be sure to post pictures as I make progress.
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ivenn
New Member
Posts: 11
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Post by ivenn on Jul 19, 2011 8:30:26 GMT -5
Also, I'll be glad to take more blurry, grainy cell phone pictures of the engine if you need any other information that would help.
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Post by Jeff Lande on Jul 19, 2011 9:25:43 GMT -5
Single port/dual port refers to the intake ports on top of the head. From the bottom of the carb, there's a pipe that goes to each side on top of the heads, if it curves down to a single round opening, that's a single port, if it splits (you have to look close) it's a dual port. But like my earlier post, I don't remember that having anything to do with the exhaust.
And yes, the heat exchangers just have to do with getting warm air into the cabin. If you don't want that anymore, you can get "J" tubes that connect to the front ports and connect to a "heat exchanger compatible" exhaust, or you can get headers that connect to all four exhaust ports, either way works just fine. And, as an added bonus, if you aren't going to use your heat exchangers, and they are in decent shape, you can probably sell them here or on thesamba as they do have some value.
You can pick up some plugs that fill the holes in the doghouse or cooling fan area where the flex tubes come down and blow air over the heat exchangers. You for sure need to do this, you don't want all your cooling air blowing out those holes into nothingness.
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 19, 2011 10:24:57 GMT -5
Heat exchangers are just for getting heat/defrost into the cabin. They aren't needed. Some people like them, some people don't. Purely your decision.
If you chose not to use then you should plug the holes coming out of the shroud. The companies I listed prior will have plug kits or you can just get the correct sized engine freeze plugs from your local parts place. You will also need to buy "J tubes" to replace the heater boxes. They are very inexpensive as compared to the heater boxes.
Single/dual port is in regards to the cylinder heads. On the top of the heads, where the intake enters you will either see a single tube going into the head or a cast piece that has a visiable split in it. A quick pic of where the intake goes into the head will confirm it. Also, the intake on a dual port of 3 sections: a center section and a left & right casting. They are connected by flexible boots.
Edit: darn it......I got pulled to a meeting half way through my response. I added it before I saw jslande01's response.
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Post by Jeff Lande on Jul 19, 2011 10:38:13 GMT -5
funny, we said almost exactly the same thing... we must be right.  |
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Post by smyrnaguy on Jul 19, 2011 14:32:16 GMT -5
For performance a 4 into 1 header will work best. Dual headers look cool but rob a bit of power.
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ivenn
New Member
Posts: 11
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Post by ivenn on Jul 19, 2011 14:43:59 GMT -5
So this looks like a single port to me, or am I looking at the wrong thing? Once again, thanks everyone for all the information. Attachments:
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 19, 2011 14:58:29 GMT -5
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Post by Jeff Lande on Jul 19, 2011 15:06:14 GMT -5
Pretty much any vw type 1 exhaust will work.
The only thing to be concerned about is where the exhaust exits, you don't want to be drilling / cutting to make room for an exhaust system only to change it out a year later because you don't like the way it looks or sounds.
(I just repaired a cutout on my GT2 from just that).
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Post by centralvalleygter on Jul 19, 2011 16:04:41 GMT -5
smyrnaguy is right. While almost any aftermarket system will be better than stock, simply due to less restriction, the way headers/extractors work, you need four into one to get the benefit of extraction at the rpms ACVW's run at. Using the same engine that I took out of my heavier BAJA with a full 4 to one system and putting it in the lighter Bradley with what I think is one of the better looking systems for the GT 1, I lost noticible accelleration in the 4000-5600 rpm range. New system does have a nice sound though. My current one is like the following one: www.mooreparts.com/store/product/1012/AC251160/ Warmest Regards..... |
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ivenn
New Member
Posts: 11
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Post by ivenn on Jul 20, 2011 17:07:55 GMT -5
Hey Big Bob,
Did you have to notch the door for those pipes to fit?
Centralvalleygter,
Got any pictures with it installed?
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 20, 2011 20:43:41 GMT -5
How's this?   Now it is with a 2" body lift so drop the back down about 2" or so to see how it would fit in a stock Bradley. |
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Post by centralvalleygter on Jul 20, 2011 21:08:18 GMT -5
Following link takes you to my web site page which shows the exhaust system at various stages of my restoration. www.kcsnet.com/~stevenr/bradley/list3.htmlIf you peruse the site a bit you can probably find pictures of it at different angles. Hope this helps. Warmest..... |
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Post by kitcarguy on Jul 20, 2011 21:09:36 GMT -5
How's this? Now it is with a 2" body lift so drop the back down about 2" or so to see how it would fit in a stock Bradley. Thats a cool setup |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Jul 20, 2011 21:15:34 GMT -5
Heat exchangers do more than supply heat to the interior, they also help cool the heads. When the head exchangers are turned off they vent the air under the car instead of inside the car. Air always passes over them. Plugging the fresh air outlets in the shroud when running J tubes creates a back pressure in the shroud, disrupting airflow, resulting in higher engine temps. To plug them the right way you have to remove the outlet completely and block it off flush with the shroud just like the 73 Thing, had gas heat and no fresh air heating.  |
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 21, 2011 20:08:15 GMT -5
Not sure I am following that analysis....
So in a stock set up when you shut off the heat exchangers the air is in essence blocked and it still has the outlet ducts so wouldn't this cause the same "back pressure" as just plugging the ducts? I mean instead of stopping the air at the duct exit you are just stopping it down the line a little farther.
I can't believe the original system suffered from this back pressure issue.
I mean back pressure must be created when you shut the heat exchangers off. I always assumed that it just caused more flow to go over the heads. Clearly the fan is self regulating. It can't force more air through a system than the system can handle. It must be designed to allow sufficient flow to go over the heads, over the oil cooler (more in the doghouse versions) and into the heater boxes. When those are cut out it must force more air (to a degree) over the heads and out the doghouse.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Jul 21, 2011 21:02:23 GMT -5
You are missing one important detain in your theory. When the heat exchangers are turned off the airflow is not stopped
It is redirected under the car at the valve that controls the heat.
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 22, 2011 8:13:32 GMT -5
My memory of a heat exchanger is a small flapper style door at the front (toward the front of the car) of the exchanger that is operated by an arm and the cable. Its spring loaded and simply opens and closes. Where along the heat exchanger does it dump out of? Front? Middle? Back? Do you have a picture?
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Post by Jeff Lande on Jul 22, 2011 8:37:54 GMT -5
there's a little bump on the top of the heat exchanger right next to where the tube connects, if the door is closed (no heat inside the car), the hot air dumps out there.
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 22, 2011 8:59:11 GMT -5
Oh...OK...its been a while since I played with them.
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Post by big bob on Jul 24, 2011 22:10:03 GMT -5
i closed my vents off out of the shroud. apparently i'm not sposed to do that...sorry for the big images.  also, the rough cut for my exhaust. i trimmed up after i rehinged the engine lid.again regular headers not a good idea apparently, but i just hate seeing all the "guts" hanging out from the bottom of the car...  |
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