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Post by mbuck1 on May 27, 2011 5:59:44 GMT -5
Simple question.....what wires need to be connected to the ammeter to make it work? Needle does not move and I am not sure if this is a bad alternator, vr or connection problem. Thanks!
Have a great memorial weekend all!
Mike
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Post by Dan MacMillan on May 27, 2011 6:41:44 GMT -5
Battery pos to ammeter neg, Ammeter pos to entire feed to car {primary feed}, Alt/gen to same side of meter as entire car.  |
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Post by mbuck1 on May 27, 2011 8:32:19 GMT -5
Thanks, that diagram really helps. Not to beat this issue too much...but two last questions. On the back of the ammeter (Bradley stock) which is + and which is - (there is a top post and a bottom post for connections) and what wires go on each besides what is indicated in the diagram? If I get this fixed, Bradely might be on the road in less than two weeks!!! Sons 18th B-day is June 3 so he is excited.
Thanks!
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Post by mrbigh on May 27, 2011 10:24:23 GMT -5
Thanks, that diagram really helps. Not to beat this issue too much...but two last questions. On the back of the ammeter (Bradley stock) which is + and which is - (there is a top post and a bottom post for connections) and what wires go on each besides what is indicated in the diagram? If I get this fixed, Bradley might be on the road in less than two weeks!!! Sons 18th B-day is June 3 so he is excited. Thanks! If the post of the Ammeter are not mark, I will describe you the connections on mine. Looking at the meter by the front, the post in the left is the source or (+) battery connection. The right HS will be distribution or all car wiring side. With some load, the needle should have a movement to higher numbers; if that's not the case, invert your connections; battery (+) to the right HS post and so on....... It's no more complicated than that. |
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Post by jspbtown on May 27, 2011 11:16:25 GMT -5
www.egauges.com also has some nice wiring sections that might help. Make sure you use sufficient gauge wire to run that thing. I personally hate ammeters. To much juice running though them.
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Post by smyrnaguy on May 27, 2011 11:47:09 GMT -5
Ah yes. There's nothing like the smell of a shunt roasting under the dash.
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Post by jspbtown on May 27, 2011 12:32:00 GMT -5
Back in the day...when I was young and stupid (OK...maybe still stupid but NOT young) I remember I wanted to install a set of 3 gauges in my 1964 Buick Special (2 door...300ci V8...ahh...the day!).
A mechanical oil pressure, electrical water temperature, and ammeter. I installed the ammeter using that thick speaker wire with the clear insulation. Nope...not a good move.
Driving out of the mall it went up in a bunch of smoke. I mean a BUNCH of smoke. The three friends and I had to pull to the side and get out so we could breath! I was like a Cheech & Chong movie.
Ahhh....young and stupid.
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Post by Tony O. on May 27, 2011 16:24:55 GMT -5
This maybe a stupid question, but I figure it is better to ask a stupid question than to do something stupid.
If I want to eliminate the ammeter, just splice the two in - out wires together?
Tony O.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on May 27, 2011 16:34:30 GMT -5
This maybe a stupid question, but I figure it is better to ask a stupid question than to do something stupid. If I want to eliminate the ammeter, just splice the two in - out wires together? Tony O. Yes you remove all wires from the meter and splice all wires together. Eliminating the meter means you can shorten the gen/alt "bat" charging wire by about 10 feet. Simply run it from the alt/gen to the big term on the starter. You van also run a smaller ga feed wire from the battery to the fuse panel and to the ign sw. |
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Post by mbuck1 on May 28, 2011 7:51:27 GMT -5
So now I am concerned about potential for fires....rightly so. I do not care if ammeter works but do want to know that alt is charging. What is the best wiring to eliminate ammeter and add alt charging light?
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Post by Dan MacMillan on May 28, 2011 12:37:20 GMT -5
Disable the ammeter by joining all of the wires that are on it together. Nothing to worry about. A voltmeter will tell you if it is charging or not. Simplie to wire up. Just atatch the pos {red} on the voltmeter to any power source that is hot with the key on, atatch the neg {black} on the meter to any ground source. White goes to any wire that is hot when the headlights are on. It draws very little current. Many come with thin 18ga wire.
How it works.
Key off= no reading 0v
Key on eng off= battery voltage=slightly over 12v
Key on engine running=over battery volts but less than 15v. Ideally 14.4-14.6 but that depends on the charging syst used {alt-gen} Gen will show low at low rpm and increase with eng speed. Alt will show max at all speeds.
If the meter drops below batt volts, you are discharging.
You should have a charge indicator light somewhere. Alt systems need it, Gen syst have a term on the regulator if you want it.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on May 28, 2011 13:01:19 GMT -5
As long as the ammeter wiring is the proper ga wire all is fine. Problems arise when people cheap out and use wire that cannot handle the entire electrical load of the vehicle.
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Post by smyrnaguy on May 29, 2011 21:08:11 GMT -5
A lot of ammeter problems begin with a probing hand trying to "feel" out a wire. Move this bunch of wires a little, tug on that and voila! The ammeter lugs are just loose enough to generate a little resistance. Resistance = heat. Heat makes the lugs and connectors expand at different rates becoming looser generating more heat... I drop of thread-locker after you've snugged up the wires is a good idea.
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