is bondo body filler any good - REAR DECK

Hello again Bob,
I'm not really the body man expert, but my brother has done quite a bit of body and paint work on the side, so I've picked up a bit. Bondo is okay when used for what it is intended - to fill in minor imperfections, indentations, etc. If you start getting more than a half-inch in thickness, there is a better, more enduring way to do the repair. Also, since it has no tension component, it is not good for filling in holes that go all the way through the body (you'll just get pills dropping out of the holes). Besides, holes are much easier to fix in fg than steel, so there is no reason to even consider it for that.

Interestingly enough, Bondo is really better on fiberglass than steel as it uses basically the same resin/hardener as fg. That makes is so it expands and contracts about the same as fg and therefore has less chance of cracking, etc as well as adhering better. The expansion/contraction will eventually show up when thickly used on steel. One last item, if you want to thin the Bondo for filling in pin-holes and very minor imperfections, you can add a little fiberglass resin. A little bit of experimenting and you'll find just the right consistency for most any work. Lastly, remember to not mix too much Bondo at once, it cures pretty quickly and its a shame to throw out more than you use.

Warmest,
Steven

Hi, Bob,

Go into the Complete Restoration section of the GT CD, and open the body files. There's a series of images that show the application of fiberglass cloth and resin over the non-stock tail light openings of the silver body. The edges are beveled and several layers of cloth are applied inside and out. Filler was only used after the glass was cloth to smooth. The beveling allows you to seat the cloth and build material over the original surface, so the new cloth doesn't fall into the repair areas after it's sanded.

It's much easier than it sounds, and kinda fun once you get into it.

Warmest...

Big Bob,

Trust me here...if you go filler than use Rage Gold. It spreads better, sands better and lasts alot longer than the Bondo brand. I have done one or two cars and I always use it.

Once you have used it there really isn't any comparison.

It is an Evercoat product.

For primer...I use Evercoat G2

The Evercoat G2 is a polyester based primer. Its like spraying body filler. Its about $50 a gallon. I spray it with a 1.8 tip and thin by 10% with acetone. It fills like you wouldn't believe and takes a top coat very nicely.

here's some updates on what is now the rear deck/rear window thread. i always wanted to do something to the rear window setup. i've been intrigued by central valley, stray cat for sure, and others, so here's my attempt.

in order to redo the rear window, i had to first pull the headliner material


i started cutting shapes from poster board to get the basic look


to get the right contour, i overlapped the poster board over the existing roof


there has been discussion on this stuff before. DONT use styrofoam or styro anything unless it is laying around as in my case, it will melt unless it is wrapped in plastic or something which i forgot to do. but this stuff below works great it is FOAM board and foil wrapped. resin will not eat this stuff. i got it at lowes, you can form it and sand it...


i first applied resin to the poster board just to help retain the shape. i ran packing tape all along the car to hopefully keep the fiberglass from sticking.


then i cut and formed the foam board inside this shape and glassed


here is the "inner shape" to the new pillar glassed in


in progress so far, man its messy, but hopefully sandpaper and primer will help.
my plan is to take this shape off where i can clean it up and give final glass and filler, then reattach.

My sugestion will be to use as little as possible the Bondo filler stuff and try to use fresh resin to fill up all your needs.
I used that procedure to unify the windshield frame with the top to the GT II body. It is solid as a rock and one nice piece.
Bondo will work out loose and crack at the edges with relative some time, leaving you a crappy finish at the "shows".

thanks for the thoughts..

i'm using matt and cloth, but i thought cloth made a better finish layer. i do use gloves, too. seems like that final layer of good resin after sanding AND using a brush made it a LOT better.

tonight, gonna resin the car top and clamp the new part on. really need it to stick good. i used 60grit for initial sanding. whats the normal sanding breakdown. i've heard 60, filler, 150, prime 200 then 400.

getting to the critical point where its dusty and messy. i'm just going for it.... big bob

60 grit for sanding the structure and shaping the glass is fine. The filler likes a nice agressive sanding pattern to grab onto.

You need more than just the resin to bond the two pieces together. I am assuming you are using some cloth /or matt as well? If not, then you really need to. Resin alone will not bond the two parts together.

I would shape the filler will 80 or 150 grit, then go 220 on the entire car before shooting the G2. I would suggest 600 before paint. You can get away with 400 for solid colors, but metallics like the 600. Depending on how well you shoot the G2 will dictate what you start with for sanding. You might have to go 220/320/400/600 after spraying the G2 if its rough. If your good (or lucky!) you might be able to get it nice and smooth and only do the 400/600.

The Evercoat G2 will fill in alot of scratches, but the smoother you can have the car before you apply it will make the sanding afterwards alot easier.

Mrbigh...I am glad it worked out for you!

I would just make sure you taper the matching edges so when you lay the glass it it follows the original contours. You can see how I did it for the front seam here:




You might also consider glassing in the rear roof seam as well:


The key is to grind it back, on a taper, about 2"in either direction.

You can cover the seam with wax paper and clamp right over that. The resin won't stick to the wax paper.

What did you pay for the Rage? I just got some for $35 a gallon. Trust me....when you go to sand it you will thank me!