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Post by danmcgee40 on Feb 8, 2014 20:02:51 GMT -5
Ok got some work done on the GT. I got it started today it will run but has some issues I guess I will just rebuild the engine that way I will know where it stands from the get go. I also found out the sun has bleached the red out of the gelcoat and the restoring compound will do not good, new paint job will have to be done. I have also made a quick gullwing door, very crude but it worked well. I will have to make an oven to make the doors right so I can get the Plexiglas hot enough to   be pliable but here are some pics this took only about an hour to make this one door and cost me nothing. |
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Post by danmcgee40 on Feb 8, 2014 20:04:13 GMT -5
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Post by danmcgee40 on Feb 8, 2014 20:05:26 GMT -5
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Post by danmcgee40 on Feb 8, 2014 20:06:26 GMT -5
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Post by danmcgee40 on Feb 8, 2014 20:12:32 GMT -5
I will have to create a mold for the door and a heat box so I can get the plexi much hotter to work the best but should not be a problem to make prefect fitting doors out of some thick tempered plexy. Note this was just a test my idea I would not suggest anyone try to use the stove like this to form Plexiglas. I will make a set of clear and smoked. Next I will get to work pulling the body off.
Do any of you know where to get the original door handles at? Also could some of you post some good pics of how you have made a door locking mechanism for the gullwing on the drivers side. Post any other good pics of upgrades and improvement you have made to your GT that I may want to use in mine, especially interior upgrades, side panels and upholstery.
Dan
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Post by Roodog on Feb 8, 2014 23:02:49 GMT -5
www.chadsbradley.co.nrChirco is the only place that I have seen the exact ones that were used on the Vw bus. They seemed a little pricey but this is where I got mine. Nice job on the doors by the way. I didn't think of making a flat templet than bending it. for sure you need a mold to bend it exactly where it needs to be bent. But what would you make a mold out of? chircoestore.com/universal-door-puller-fits-all-beetles.html
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Post by jspbtown on Feb 8, 2014 23:06:52 GMT -5
Interesting. So it looks like the bend is way off on your prototype? So you will now try a mold and a heat box? Whats involved in that?
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Post by danmcgee40 on Feb 9, 2014 16:01:47 GMT -5
The bend is no way off with a bit of twicking with a heat gun it would sit flat against the seams but the plexi is to thin, just what I had on hand. A heat box will be made out of 2" aluminum backed insulation and use a forced air heater the round tube type and can produced an ambient temperature of 203°F (95°C) in 5 min. I will also cover the inside with heat resistant aluminum sheets that can take the hot box up to 400F in about 15 min. then just lay the plexi inside on a mat of the same insulation and wait 15 min then place in mold and let cool. There you will have a perfect window. I will make the mold out of plywood and real thin sheet metal covered with felt. I will make a male and female mold that can be clamp shut to each other to hold the plexi in place while it cools. Same mold can be used for each side just flip over the plexi so one is in the mold opposite from the other. Here is a cool link on how to do a hot box at home from stuff at home depot www.smooth-on.com/faq_display.php?faq_id=66Dan |
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Post by danmcgee40 on Feb 9, 2014 16:08:54 GMT -5
Oh a note on the first group of pictures where you see the door blank hanging off the car it is not bent yet just hanging there under its own weight which also shows how thin it was. I did not take a pic of it after the bend. When taking it back off to heat just a bit more I dropped and broke the new door. I will play with it until I get it right and track the cost so when it is right I will post the drawing and instruction on how I made the door with the place to get materials and cost. the molds should be able to be taken apart and stored until needed as well as the hot box. If you make the hot box big enough from the beginning then you could also make the rear glass from a single sheet of plexy in the same way.
Dan
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Post by Gary Hammond on Feb 9, 2014 17:12:32 GMT -5
Hi Dan,  ..................... Also could some of you post some good pics of how you have made a door locking mechanism for the gullwing on the drivers side. Post any other good pics of upgrades and improvement you have made to your GT that I may want to use in mine, especially interior upgrades, side panels and upholstery. Dan Here's a link to some pics I posted back on July 6, 2010 of the locks I have on mine. www.bradleygt.proboards.com/post/2379/threadHere's a link to some other mods I posted back on July 12, 2007 of the interior and front sway bar. www.bradleygt.proboards.com/post/26/threadHere's another link to fuel tank mods I posted on April 27,2010 www.bradleygt.proboards.com/post/1753/threadHere's a link to headlight mods I posted on Jan 17, 2011 www.bradleygt.proboards.com/post/4189/threadHere's a link to the engine cover mods I posted on July 24, 2011 www.bradleygt.proboards.com/post/6679/threadHere's a link to the way I added rear body supports to stop "butt sag" www.bradleygt.proboards.com/post/11653/threadAnd finally a link to my rear window attachment mods posted on Nov 11, 2010 www.bradleygt.proboards.com/post/3600/threadGary Hammond,   |
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Post by danmcgee40 on Feb 10, 2014 15:36:34 GMT -5
Gary very cool thanks I had looked at the tank as it was plugged up. Did not help that the previous owner had the lines backwards on the fuel pump either. I will certainly be using some of the headlight mods and the engine hatch mods. I will know more after I get the body off and can really see the condition of the frame unit. But this is exactly what I am looking for so all others post your stuff as well, show off what you have done to yours to make the sweat little car better.
Dan
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Post by danmcgee40 on Feb 25, 2014 15:10:51 GMT -5
To all just an update, I have pulled the car out of the garage and it will wait until warmer weather before I get back to removing the body and rebuilding the ride. I have to get plane to a point I can get it off the construction beam and on its own wheels so I can make room more easily for the many projects IO have the Bradley being one of them. As you may understand it also take a good bit of my extra funds to build the two airplanes. So closer, to the summer I will restart this thread back up and move on with the rebuild efforts.
Dan
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Post by danmcgee40 on Aug 3, 2014 13:34:59 GMT -5
Ok back to the rebuild I have pulled the body off the car, and will start on the frame restoration first. Here are some picks of the car as it sits now. the frame is in excellent shape no rust holes and no rust other than some surface so that was a great find. I also found that the motor on the car was very clean as compared to the rest even were the trans and motor mount together. this make me wonder what the true condition of the motor is, has this thing been rebuilt and if so does the rebuild match the 2100 miles on the speedometer, if so this is a really great turn of vents. I will perform a compression test and take a look at the valve train, this should show what the condition of the motor is. I should also note the oil is clear as if it had just got a fresh oil change. The guy I got the car from told me he did not know and did not clean the motor either. Dan |
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Post by danmcgee40 on Aug 3, 2014 13:36:20 GMT -5
a few more pcs Attachments:
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Post by danmcgee40 on Aug 4, 2014 18:54:11 GMT -5
I took the front Axle tubes apart today and found that all the tie rods and ball joints were bad to include the tube bearing covers were shoot. However the searing box is ok and the major assemblies are also usable so it should be a very easy rebuild. I will replace the complete tie rods and tubes both side and have new ball joints pressed in and replace the bearing caps for the tubes and re-grease them well. Oh I will also have to replace the sway bar mounts I did not like them and the rubber is very hard and dry from time. I am sure it is stock from the 1967 VW. |
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 4, 2014 21:45:35 GMT -5
I wouldn't even use the sway bar.
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Post by danmcgee40 on Aug 5, 2014 15:10:05 GMT -5
To late I have alreday ordered the new hangers and rubber supports for the sway bar. Was real cheap so no big deal. I also ordered a set of tube seals for the axle beam cost $18 that was a major purchase almost broke my account. LOL
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Post by danmcgee40 on Aug 9, 2014 20:04:04 GMT -5
Well it was a productive day I got all the surfaces clean on the main frame and premiered. I also rebuilt the steering gearbox and painted it red. I cleaned the torsion bar and got the new tub seals in toady as well. I ordered the tierod ends and the ball joints to include a new damper and busing. The front end will be completed and ready for final paint by next weekend. I only cleaned what needed to be done as the main frame will be covered with new carpet and you will not even be able to see it after. I am also going to take it in after and get the underbody coated with a rhino liner material to protect it as well before the body goes back on. It has been a fun Saturday. Mt Sunday if for working on the plane and getting it ready for the aluminum skins. Hope you all enjoyed the update. Dan |
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Post by danmcgee40 on Aug 13, 2014 20:45:44 GMT -5
I cleaned up the tie rods toady and replaced the ends as well as cleaned and primed the sway bar. I got the new sway bar mounts and ball joints in also so will get them ready to install the weekend then I will take updated pics and get them posted. That will the complete front end done and painted. I will then take off the peddle group and clean and paint them to include the master cylinder. the rear end will be next then new clutch and engine tune up.
Dan
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Post by danmcgee40 on Aug 14, 2014 19:12:37 GMT -5
I need to ground hop the engine so to speak, so need to know what the wiring required would be. I could look over the harness to determine the only wiring needed to run the motor but sure one of you already knows the minimum wiring requirements to start and run the motor. Want to start and run the motor without the harness and body on.
Dan
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Post by skip20 on Aug 14, 2014 20:09:25 GMT -5
I need to ground hop the engine so to speak, so need to know what the wiring required would be. I could look over the harness to determine the only wiring needed to run the motor but sure one of you already knows the minimum wiring requirements to start and run the motor. Want to start and run the motor without the harness and body on. Dan You need gas supply, on/off switch from batt+ to Coil+, Screw driver on starter or mon sw to start it. |
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Post by savedbygrace on Aug 14, 2014 20:20:14 GMT -5
Providing that the wires are still on the engine, all you need is 12V to the + side of the coil. If the wires are off the engine then you need to run a wire from the - side of the coil to the distributor, a wire from the + side to the choke, and the idle solenoid if you have one. From your pics looks like you have a single port engine which would not have the Pic 34 carb with an idle solenoid. I hook my 12v source to the hot side of the starter, and the ground to the transaxle. At that point you can run a hot wire from the starter up to the coil. Use a screwdriver to cross the starter lugs to crank the starter. For fuel I have an old riding mower gas tank that can be hooked up to the fuel pump if it works or strapped to the shroud and let gravity feed to the carb. Hope this helps.
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Post by danmcgee40 on Aug 15, 2014 11:10:41 GMT -5
cool thank you was what I thought. Also what are you comments on converting the points to electronic ignition, likes, dislikes if any, I am at a point where that would be very easy to do.
Dan
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Post by danmcgee40 on Aug 15, 2014 12:55:05 GMT -5
Ok guys just performed a compression test and found the # 1 and 2 have 130lbs which is great but # 4 had 145 and # 3 had only 95 and that is not great. What are your thoughts on the difference on only one side. My first thoughts are that the valves on that side need to be adjusted but all of the plugs looked very black carbon coating. But the engine still looks as if it had been recently rebuilt or at least had work done. I will check the valves on both sides and retest the compression. What is the feeler gauge used on the valve (what size).
Dan
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Post by skip20 on Aug 15, 2014 15:00:33 GMT -5
Ok guys just performed a compression test and found the # 1 and 2 have 130lbs which is great but # 4 had 145 and # 3 had only 95 and that is not great. What are your thoughts on the difference on only one side. My first thoughts are that the valves on that side need to be adjusted but all of the plugs looked very black carbon coating. But the engine still looks as if it had been recently rebuilt or at least had work done. I will check the valves on both sides and retest the compression. What is the feeler gauge used on the valve (what size). Dan .006 all valves Mild cam may be .005 New head are $160.00 eack Jug & piston kit (84.) are $135.00 I know as I just did it on both engines |
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Post by danmcgee40 on Aug 15, 2014 20:11:32 GMT -5
Well, I now think either a ring is sized or a valve may be burnt in number 3, at any rate I will go ahead and tear the motor down and rebuild the engine. Just happy parts are so cheap. I was also able to fix the peddle group, shifter and emergency parking break unit so that was a real win.
Dan
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Post by danmcgee40 on Aug 24, 2014 21:09:45 GMT -5
Ok here is the news the motor is jacked. It was obviously rebuilt has new pistons and very clean but when I drained the oil I got out the oil along with about a half gallon of gas as well mixed in. I did not find any type of seals on the heads or on the cylinders. I thought they were supposed to have brass rings and or spacers in the heads and where the cylinders meat the block but nota.
The rings are all clean and look new I say that because the oil seal rings are absolutely pristine. So how do you think all that fuel got into the block. I do remind you all that there was 130lbs on 1 & 2, 90 on 3 and 154 on #4 when I did the compression test. I will certainly rebuild the motor and replace all the bearings due to the fuel the mote was running at one time the piston tops and valves are all black from running other wise the motor is supper clean.
Ideas?
Dan
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Post by cocacoladodge on Aug 24, 2014 21:22:38 GMT -5
Someone didn't like the owner prior to you and poured gas in the oil fill... If the engine would have gotten hot enough,it might have blown the block.
My neighbor did something similar a few years back when he was junking a car. He drained the antifreeze, and refilled the cooling system with gas, and set the car on jack stands and let it keep running till it blew. Blew the engine, trans, radiator to pieces - in about a 50 yard radius
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Post by Gary Hammond on Aug 24, 2014 22:15:45 GMT -5
Hi Dan, .............I did not find any type of seals on the heads or on the cylinders. I thought they were supposed to have brass rings and or spacers in the heads and where the cylinders meat the block but nota. ...........................So how do you think all that fuel got into the block. ...............Ideas? Dan 1. There are only thin paper gaskets used between the jugs and the crankcase. They like to fail and leak. I leave them out and seal with silicone seal instead. 2. The stock jug to head uses no gasket of any kind, but after market copper rings are available. I've not used them. Barrel shims are sometimes used on stroked engines to keep the pistons from protruding out of the jugs and colliding with the head! You need .040" to .060" of deck clearance between the piston and top of the jug/bottom of head. All this has an effect on the compression ratio and so must be carefully calculated when making changes. 3. Sounds like a bad (leaking) fuel pump or a flooding carburetor letting fuel into the crankcase/cylinders. Gary Hammond, |
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Post by danmcgee40 on Aug 25, 2014 7:25:45 GMT -5
I found out thwe kid was dumping fuel down the carb trying to get it started and had the fuel pump hooked up backwards. He with his fathers help rebuilt the carb so I will look at that now as well. I am just going to rebuild the engine and start from scratch. That is the best course of actrion att that point I think.
Dan
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be pliable but here are some pics this took only about an hour to make this one door and cost me nothing.
