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Brace:
Sept 27, 2013 12:44:19 GMT -5
Post by skarekr0w on Sept 27, 2013 12:44:19 GMT -5
I believe I did see Dan Macmillan's post on using heat, but I recall it was in Florida, where it's WARM  You can actually see the sag affecting the windshield in my primary pic, top pass side, it's a pretty big hole. The sag seems to be more obvious on the pass side, than the drivers. I'm really glad we're all touching bases on this issue. I like Mercers brace as well, but if it's for a gt1, not that it's usually a issue for gt1, I'm concerned about it supporting all the weight. Looking at it, I just don't think that will work. It's too heave, and would still have sag in the rear I think. When I started this thread, the only proven option I saw was building a rail system. There has to be another way. Dan Macmillan posted last night, but I guess I don't quite understand it. I'll take some new pics today. My camera sucks batteries dead. |
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stevevw
Full Member
Part VW part Porsche , all Bradley
Posts: 117
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Brace:
Sept 27, 2013 20:00:06 GMT -5
Post by stevevw on Sept 27, 2013 20:00:06 GMT -5
I will try to post a couple picts of my brace, however it was a welded unit I made .Where in Wa are ya skarekr0w ?
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Brace:
Sept 27, 2013 22:04:07 GMT -5
Post by skarekr0w on Sept 27, 2013 22:04:07 GMT -5
KEEP THE THREAD ALIVE
"Welcome to my parlor" said the spider to the fly,,,
I'm in Kitsap across from Seattle.
It's suppose to pour rain here for the next 4 days straight with possible floods. So if my car doesn't float because it needed a brace... No pressure =) |
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Brace:
Sept 28, 2013 20:26:40 GMT -5
Post by horen2tas on Sept 28, 2013 20:26:40 GMT -5
I feel your pain.... Honestly... you're going to solve it because you're really committed
from my humble experience that's the way it happens -- sleeping on it obsessing on it etc.
There used to be a post showing a very specific diagram of how and what is going on with butt sag
I did a search and couldn't find it here but I'm pretty certain it's on the board somewhere.
Mine has a piece of 3/4" x 3" wood spanning the top of the rear shock mounts
I could actually use a little more thickness as my doors catch slightly towards the rear.
I'd be concerned about the windshield also, my advise would be to find someone
who is expert in handling glass and pay him (or her) to come out to you and remove the windshield for the time being.
I took one out but buggered up the seal it was old and painted over several times.
Once your windshield is out put it in a safe place and then start with a piece of 3/4" wood across the top of the shock mounts.
Obviously you'll need to raise the body up a little by pushing near where the wood is going to slip in
by using some jury rig of bottle jacks or the like once it's in let the car sit and settle and then check your windshield frame.
The windshield is fairly easy to handle when it's out of the car and you can pretty much lay it in place to check the fit,
You still have to be very careful with it but you will be able to see what's causing that gap and see if the fiber glass is warped or what
maybe cut and move the lip back to where it should be and then fiber glass a patch in.
When you have the sag problems solved get the glass person back to put he windshield back in.
I'm certain you're gonna get it, you sound really determined.
I wish you Good Luck!
All the best
Mike Horen
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Brace:
Sept 29, 2013 15:24:59 GMT -5
Post by skarekr0w on Sept 29, 2013 15:24:59 GMT -5
Horen, your Twoie has been a major inspiration to me well before I bought mine. I want your bumpres! I actually ran into before and after pictures of it. I even found a picture of it on Craigslist from someone who was looking for one. I've been without power from 3pm yesterday to 12:30pm today, so I've decided to let this storm pass before I start on this again. So you wouldn't do any of this with th glass still in it either. That is my biggest concern unless I can have yours You're saying thicker as in 1" or 4"? What is it bolted to? To get stable results with wood I can't see doing it with less than Doug fir 2x4's. Maybe a 2x3, a 1x3 would probably just snap I would think. It doesn't take much.. I'm a lumber guy. |
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Sept 29, 2013 16:38:39 GMT -5
Post by skarekr0w on Sept 29, 2013 16:38:39 GMT -5
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Brace:
Sept 30, 2013 1:39:57 GMT -5
Post by horen2tas on Sept 30, 2013 1:39:57 GMT -5
First things first, get the car up on jack stands (unless U have a lift). I use the 6 ton variety because they get the car up higher and it's easier to scoot around under it with a creeper.
Look at the top of the shock supports its very close or touching the bottom of whats the back shelf behind the driver and passenger, you need to very careful & take it slow jacking that section up enough to
get a 1" x 3" by whatever the width of that underside of the shelf probably about 36" I'm fairly certain 1" thick is enough. Be careful and keep an eye on the jack stands as you raise the shelf area
the wood can be held in place by 2 bolts though the shelf and the board, it's not really going anywhere. Then you can put the wheels on and lower it down. After it settles check the door fit and
see what you've got. and what has changed.
As far as the bumpers or nerf bars go they were fabbed by Steve Striharsky who unfortunately passed away about 3 years ago. He built the car and pretty much custom made everything on it.
Although I never met Steve I feel very much in touch with his craftsmanship as I go back and forth over the car restoring and in some cases improving on things.
I know he made a few sets of those bumpers for some of the members. I can tell you they are stainless steel and could possibly be copied from some of the pix you see of the car.
It just would require a load of skill and patience --like anything worthwhile in life!!
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Brace:
Sept 30, 2013 11:41:07 GMT -5
Post by skarekr0w on Sept 30, 2013 11:41:07 GMT -5
As soon as it dries out I'll pull my wheels, jack it up and see what I have. Right now my driveway looks like a scene right out of swamp people. 2 day storm with rain, wind, lightning... and interesting lights in the sky that hovered... Creepy!
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Brace:
Oct 2, 2013 10:54:44 GMT -5
Post by mj on Oct 2, 2013 10:54:44 GMT -5
One remedy is to install the bolt-on Kafer Cup Brace - the one that bridges the two rear shock towers at their tops (and also includes the vertical braces.) Then lay 1/2" of sealed-cell foam on top. That will remove sag. The foam isolates vibration. Here is a picture of one with the body and engine off, but you can install the parts with the body on, engine in - quite an easy install. carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/3378/2641/8443820053_large.jpg |
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Brace:
Oct 14, 2013 0:01:51 GMT -5
Post by skarekr0w on Oct 14, 2013 0:01:51 GMT -5
Hopefully, I'll be able to screw with it in the next week. I still have no visual idea what I'm doing at this point, I thought for a common problem there would be a flood of great examples from people. I'm in better shape than before I started this thread, I guess..?
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