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Post by papilonious on Jun 14, 2013 8:53:29 GMT -5
looking at buying this but wanted to get the advice from this forum... its on a 1967 vw frame... 1600cc engine. the guy says it runs. thats about all the info I really have Attachments:
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Post by papilonious on Jun 14, 2013 8:54:06 GMT -5
rear pic Attachments:
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Post by papilonious on Jun 14, 2013 8:54:49 GMT -5
side pic Attachments:
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Post by papilonious on Jun 14, 2013 8:57:46 GMT -5
front pic Attachments:
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Post by bobevans on Jun 14, 2013 9:04:39 GMT -5
Depends on the price...The twoie appears to have some neat looking custom work done on it...vents where the quarter windows go...tonneau cover and rear window treatment...Tail lights ets...If he is not overboard on the price and the windshield is not cracked or broken....Windshield alone is worth $300 plus... Just my opinion...  Bobevans |
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 14, 2013 10:42:45 GMT -5
Looks like ALOT of custom touches. That could be good or bad, depending on how they were done.
What it comes down to is this:
1. Windshield...if not intact then walk.
2. Overall quality of work and condition of motor.
3. Your ability to basically do ALOT of repair work...cause that car needs it. It is not a "throw some plugs in it and go" type car.
Lastly...have him take a picture of under the dash so you can see the wiring. My bet is that it is a mess. Can you re-wire something?
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Post by fastcorgigarage on Jun 14, 2013 11:15:09 GMT -5
Really you need to look at the work that has been done already and think if it's mods you would of done, then look at what all it would take to get to a show car and think to yourself how much of the work can I do myself. Also ask and see if he is willing to negotiate price . Once you have done that then you will know. I went with a un touched shell cause I like to make cars my own when it comes to projects. Sometimes it is good to get opinions of unbiased parties but the decision really rests on you and your pocket book. Good luck with the car if you get and if you pass I wish you luck on finding one that will work for you.
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Post by papilonious on Jun 14, 2013 11:56:39 GMT -5
thanks for the quick feedback... not looking to turn it into a show car or anything, more like something I park in the garage to look at and drive on weekends...sort of a ratrod
I just want to get it on the road, the guy says it needs headlights and tail lights to get it back on the road and he swears it runs (says he's driven it up and down his driveway).
not looking to put alot of time messing with it, there's enough in the budget to buy a used motor that runs in case it's junk.
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Post by fastcorgigarage on Jun 14, 2013 12:01:05 GMT -5
Sounds like you answered your own question then, if the price is right and it's what you want then go for it man. My favorite vehicle I ever owned was a ratted out 79 Toyota pick up painted turd brown with the bed completely rusted out. I got it running great and drove the hell out of it. Wasn't much to look at but it made me happy to drive and that's all that mattered.
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Post by papilonious on Jun 14, 2013 12:14:51 GMT -5
i know this is a totally generalized question and you guys will probably need to know more info but...
what should i look for as far as typical and expensive things that could be wrong with it... keep in mind that my mechanical knowledge is limited to the ability to take things apart and not put them back together correctly
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 14, 2013 12:15:51 GMT -5
That car will require alot more time and money than you think.
I would guess 12 months and several thousand (if the motor is running that is).
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Post by papilonious on Jun 14, 2013 12:17:23 GMT -5
12 months, several thousand just to get it on the road?
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Post by fastcorgigarage on Jun 14, 2013 12:32:07 GMT -5
I'm also confused on the several thousand dollars comment. How do you figure several thousand dollars? Body work on fiberglass is relatively cheap and a good running used motor can be purchased for $900 or less, wiring is also cheap if someone was to buy a wrecked parts car for a few hundred pull it themselves then scrap the rest.
If you are not very good as a mechanic then maybe consider buying a running finished car or look into some of your colleges around the area. I know that colleges with automotive classes welcome projects from the community for their students to learn auto body, engine repair, etc. You will have to pay for the parts but labor is cheap as hell and the students are constantly watched over by licensed mechanics/instructors. I had my 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Ball joints done by a votech class for $200 and that was parts plus labor. My dad just got his motorcycle done by a motorcycle technical college in dallas done for $650 and he had a complete motor rebuild and paint done.
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 14, 2013 12:32:58 GMT -5
I bet the wiring is a rats nest. Are you really good at wiring? Fixing a hack job on top of a hack job on top of a hack job is not easy. Re-wire is much easier. Probably $350-$400 for you to do.
Looks like it has been sitting for a while. I bet the fluid in the brakes is pretty much gone and there is alot of rust and corrosion. Rubber lines cracked and brittle. Wheel cylinders leaking. hard lines (especially along the inside) severely corroded. Are you ready for an entire brake job? I would not suggest you "put it on the road" with weak brakes.
And how about that gas tank? Full of crud from sitting? I believe the body has to be lifted off to get to the custom tank. Get it boiled out. Clean the lines. Thats some work.
How about those tires...they don't look to good. To get it "on the road" some new tires might be in order.
And if your suspension is perfect then no worries. but if not you can count on 4 ball joints, 4 shocks, 2 tie rods, and a steering stabilizer.
And lastly..the engine. "It runs"....that tells me nothing. Does it run under the load of driving down the road? Is it pissing out oil and every opportunity? How is that old main seal doing? Filling up your clutch with oil? Are you ready to remove the engine?
Oh...and don't forget the floorpans....how are they?
I don't want to rain on your parade but you should know these things. I have built just a few of these cars and rarely do you get one that looks like that which can you just "get on the road" in a short period of time.
And if you can't do it all yourself you are at the whim of a repair place...if you can find one.
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Post by papilonious on Jun 14, 2013 12:43:21 GMT -5
thanks jspbtown,
that's exactly the info I was looking for...
and thanks fastcorgigarage that's a great idea. at least I have somewhere to take it to get all that work done.
now the real test... getting my wife to think this is a good idea
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Post by fastcorgigarage on Jun 14, 2013 12:45:43 GMT -5
The getting your wife to think its a good idea part will cost you more than the car project itself! LOL
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 14, 2013 12:59:50 GMT -5
Bodywork on fiberglass is cheap...if you can/want to do it yourself. If you can't then its not cheap. The GTIIs were better body wise then the GTs (those things are so wavy!) but with all those body mods I bet they aren't done right.
Doing fiberglass work is an art...and it takes time. Lots of sanding, lots of building, lots more sanding. And paint work is not easy either. You need the right primer. Plenty more sanding, and then finally shooting the paint.
Pulling a used harness (from an old Bug I assume?) is really not a good idea. Its 40+ year old wiring. Who wants that in a build? So many little pinches & shorts. You will chase them all day long. A new aftermarket generic harness is the way to go. New style fuses. New wire. Much, much better.
The only issue with going the college route is that they want to work on cars that they will possibly see in their careers. If they are in a body shop then they likely won't see too many glass cars (sure..a resto shop doing vettes maybe). They also won't see many air cooled VW motors so instructors tend to shy away from really unique cars that have no real learning value.
Again...not trying to rain on your parade but this forum is full of big plans and abandoned projects.
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Post by papilonious on Jun 14, 2013 13:30:07 GMT -5
I kinda like the rough look the car has... goes with the ratrod feel.
New harness is def the way to go, thanks for the advice.
I should have enough $$ in the budget for a new motor/trans... or more likely a functional motor/trans and the labor to put it in.
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Post by big bob on Jun 14, 2013 14:20:42 GMT -5
lots to think about for sure....
one easy way to see if it runs, just tell the guy to take you down the road in it.....that will answer a LOT of questions....
best of luck.... bob
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 14, 2013 14:26:36 GMT -5
Transmissions are usually pretty tough. In all the cars I have built I have never had a bad trans. Plenty of bad motors but no bad transmissions.
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Post by papilonious on Jun 14, 2013 14:29:56 GMT -5
test drive will answer alot of questions I agree... its just the risk of driving 3 hours with a trailer and coming back empty handed that worries me.
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 14, 2013 14:39:15 GMT -5
I don't think that car will "test drive". It might start. It might move. But there is no way you are gonna drive that thing down the street.
That might be a good question for him: "Can I take it on a test drive?"
And the under dash picture too!
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 14, 2013 14:44:13 GMT -5
Just noticed...no wipers. Are they required to get it on the road in your state?
Oh...and does he have a title?
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Post by papilonious on Jun 14, 2013 14:56:50 GMT -5
he does have the title... and I didnt even notice the missing wipers! I'll have to check on that.
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Minax
Junior Member
Posts: 61
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Post by Minax on Jun 15, 2013 19:13:01 GMT -5
Judging from what I can see in the third pic the dash is heavily modified.. so you can probably assume the wiring is scary. Be sure to check the floors over really good, most of these I have seen, people just patch up the floor instead of replacing the pans. Replacing pans isn't hard or really expensive , it's just really time consuming and you really need a welder.
If your willing to put the time and money into it, it will be a fun little project. and you'll learn alot.
as a basic estimate... I'd say if it does run and you have a title, then your gonna put about 1000 to 1800 in parts (wiring harness, tires, wheels, brake system components,ect), if the engine has problems then add another $800 to 1500 depending if your going to go used or rebuild (thats parts only not labor if you have someone else do it) Remember new engine is 2500 to 3500 for a turnkey.
If your planning to do most of the work yourself you can keep the cost down but there is a lot of time involved. It's a project... expect lots of work and time and a bit of money. but don't get discouraged by me. If you want to try it go for it.
If your just going to try to patch work the thing into running driving order I'd guess about $600 to $1200 to make it roadworthy and safe enough.
my 2cents take it for what it's worth. good luck
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Post by skip20 on Jun 15, 2013 21:20:21 GMT -5
Here's what I think after buying 5 of the GT II's The doors look good on driver side, seems to fir good & stays up. How's the other side? The W/S look really good, just a little fogging around the bottom & not cracked. a good 3-500.00 there! The rear hump area look good & could be removed I bet if you don't like it. The tail lights suck!!! it's a Maverick.  Front corner has been BADLY repaired take off a good 250.00.  The gel coat was Yellow, same as mine. remove the paint & buff the gel coat back. However due to damage, guess you can't do that.  Would need to have paint remove & a good 250 G sanding on gel coat to repaint it. OFF $5-750.00  Head light don't come up I bet! new elec. ram $85.00. Replace to stock over $300.00 Rebuilt engine go for $950.00 in stock form. You rebuild about $500.00 in GOOD parts. Little thing add up FAST so keep a spread sheet on it. It's FUN, enjoyable & will keep you out of the Bars! Then you can stand back & say "I DID THIS" ;D     PS: 67 vw is a good year to have but &% would be better. You never said what he was ASKING for it!!!! $5000.00 no way, up to $1500.00 way. I have paid 300.00 to 1500.00 which was my 1st & a rip off plus alot of driving, 3 hours is a peace of cake. I leaned more after I found these GREAT guys & Doll here. |
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Post by trimagnum on Jun 16, 2013 2:47:09 GMT -5
My 2 cents, You could learn a lot from a project like this key word project. It will take time and money and some swearing to make it right. If they want any more than $1,200 try not to laugh .
Wiring can be so interesting on kit cars but not in a good way. Masking tape instead of electrical tape millions of crimp connectors and bare wires galore . The body mods are a matter of taste good or bad is up to the individual . So should you? if it's cheap and you are up for a challenge sure go for it. But keep this in mind it's supposed to be fun not a P.I.T.A .
The wealth of knowledge in this forum is immense (that isn't sarcasm ) questions are welcome . So good luck with it have fun if you get stumped say so someone will have the answer.
Rich
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Post by mj on Jun 16, 2013 8:42:38 GMT -5
The fiberglass looks like it was finished with a brick. It is the worst I've ever seen. I would pay scrap price for the unit. $400 is about right.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Jun 16, 2013 17:11:00 GMT -5
The fiberglass looks like it was finished with a brick. It is the worst I've ever seen. I would pay scrap price for the unit. $400 is about right. Well spoken. The bodywork alone will cost a small fortune to repair properly and look good. If you like the look as is that is fine however make sure everything structural and safety related is 100%, even if local laws do not require it. Remember that you are responsible to keep your vehicles in A1 condition with regards to safety. I don't care where safety falls in your mind with regards to you. I care about the other people sharing the road with you. Some states the laws are ridiculous. Just look at what can be driven. I have seen brakes like this on many occasions.  ![]() i51.photobucket.com/albums/f354/CandyXR3/Cars/Donk%20Box%20and%20Bubble/pic_2_lg.jpg [/img] |
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Post by fastcorgigarage on Jun 17, 2013 11:19:58 GMT -5
I know you said you had a rat rod style build in mind for the car, but maybe you should consider other options for a rat build.
I built a couple rat rods before and I'm getting ready to start a 3rd with a 64 Dart. The 2 projects cost about 5 grand each.
I built a Mitsubishi 3000 Gt VR4 with a Mopar 440 Big block and that ran almost $10,000.
My wifes Bradley all added up so far is up to $4,000
My current 1947 Jeep CJ2A project will cost $6,000 by the time it is all said and done.
I am only give these personal examples to give you an idea of what projects can cost if you do them yourself without paying a shop to do 50% of the work for you. I talked to a shop owner friend over the weekend and he said that if he was to do the work I had done on the 3000GT he would have charged over $20,000 for the parts and shop time. Again these are just examples of project costs I have done over the years that I wanted to share to give you a better idea of what you may be getting into.
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