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Post by whcgt on Mar 20, 2013 17:32:56 GMT -5
Removed the un-needed spacer,on the steering wheel column. Also installed the new turnsignal switch. I first had to solder each wire with extention wires & tape them all together. Still waiting to have a new dash made, then I will install my Porsche 914 gauges & switches.
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Post by whcgt on Mar 20, 2013 17:34:19 GMT -5
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Post by whcgt on Mar 20, 2013 17:47:42 GMT -5
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Post by whcgt on Mar 20, 2013 17:49:22 GMT -5
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Post by whcgt on Mar 20, 2013 17:53:17 GMT -5
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Post by whcgt on Mar 20, 2013 17:57:00 GMT -5
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Post by whcgt on Apr 5, 2013 20:49:18 GMT -5
My new dash & switch dash.   |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 6, 2013 17:48:02 GMT -5
Nice upgrade to the dash. Keep cleaning up that wiring.
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Post by whcgt on Apr 6, 2013 18:51:09 GMT -5
Thank you, I keep at it...litttle by little.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 7, 2013 3:23:45 GMT -5
Just a couple of tips. On the fuse panel where you have the red jumpers going down the one side I would lose the jumpers and spread the terminals so they touch each other then solder them toether. Also if using crimp on terminals spend a few extra dollars and et the heat shrink terminals, or strip the plasic off the plain ones-crimp-solder and heat shrink.
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Post by whcgt on Apr 7, 2013 6:53:33 GMT -5
Those are pretty good tips regarding the terminals. What I do is surgical..regarding even the cheap terminals. 1st I remove the plastic sheath from the terminal & slide it free down the wire(painfull on the fingers,many of those plastic sheaths are on there tight). 2nd I then take my needle nose plyers & take half of the terminal, where it is spilt & crush the wire in the opening.3rd I turn the terminal 90 degrees & then crush the rest of the terminal over the wire. I sort of roll the terminal metal around the copper wire, entrapping the copper strands. I then pre crush the plastic sheath & slide it over the wire & terminal area. I do solder the big gauge wires to secure them tight. I dont have any loose wires within my terminal connections. Any open circuits, of my wiring, will be do to broken copper strands , not any loose terminal to wire connections. Those jumpers wires are exactly as the 1972 VW schematic has them. I am wiring the car exactly like the 1972 VW wiring diagram schematic. I am incooperating some other circuits into it as needed. I would like any future owner to simply be able to pull up the 1972 wiring schematic & be able to solve any electrical issues with the car.
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Post by whcgt on Apr 7, 2013 7:11:56 GMT -5
Just a couple of tips. On the fuse panel where you have the red jumpers going down the one side I would lose the jumpers and spread the terminals so they touch each other then solder them toether. Also if using crimp on terminals spend a few extra dollars and et the heat shrink terminals, or strip the plasic off the plain ones-crimp-solder and heat shrink. You know Dan, after I have finished wiring the car. I just might take your advice & take each wire & solder the copper strands within each terminal. If it is not considered over the top & unnecessary. But for now, I am just taking each task as it comes. I'll have the Astra GT up & going pretty soon. |
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Post by jspbtown on Apr 7, 2013 16:52:41 GMT -5
I am assuming you will have a supplement to the 1972 diagram outlining the grounding diagrams for any future owners as well?
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 7, 2013 17:39:47 GMT -5
The best thing you can do is heat shrink them all with the good heatshrink that has glue inside it. Keeps all the moisture out.
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Post by whcgt on Apr 7, 2013 17:40:52 GMT -5
When the time comes, indeed I will have diagrams of the wiring system for a new owner. Including the additional circuits as well as groundwires. It will be awhile before I were to sell it. I would like to build it & enjoy it for awhile.
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Post by whcgt on Apr 11, 2013 15:26:56 GMT -5
Switch dash, ready to install. I need a 3" VDO clock, to add to the switch dash.
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Post by whcgt on Apr 11, 2013 15:28:36 GMT -5
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Post by whcgt on Apr 11, 2013 15:30:05 GMT -5
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Post by whcgt on Apr 11, 2013 15:35:13 GMT -5
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Post by jspbtown on Apr 11, 2013 18:02:03 GMT -5
Why the different types of switches?
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Post by whcgt on Apr 11, 2013 20:33:38 GMT -5
Oh, just picked the best of what I had..between my Porsche 914 & my Astra GT. Didn't want to use any of the plastic switches.
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Post by jspbtown on Apr 11, 2013 21:40:28 GMT -5
$20 in new toggle switches would go along way in a more finished looking product.
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Post by whcgt on Apr 11, 2013 22:38:43 GMT -5
Yeah, maybe so. Anyhow, the round push button switch is for the engine cover release. Then I got an interior light switch, engine electrical fan switch, interior cooling fan,antenna, the 3 big round switches, are headlights,emergency lights. 1 of the 3 round switches..needs replaced with a windshield wiper switch.
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Post by smyrnaguy on Apr 17, 2013 6:58:52 GMT -5
Ok so I'm going against the common thought here. Do not solder crimp terminals. Vibration will cause the wires to break at the solder joint. For this reason auto, appliance and professional equipment manufacturers use crimps only. A proper ratcheting crimper will provide more reliable contacts than solder 100% of the time. Solder should be used on circuit boards, plumbing, body panels and ground systems and not much else. You might think that your wiring doesn't move when completed but you'd be wrong. Temperatures and circuit usage cause expansion and contraction at different rates for different wire types and sizes. Road vibration is also a factor to be considered. I recommend a 1 inch diameter loop at both ends of every circuit. This installs flex points for wire movement, allows wires to be removed and replaced easier and provides added length just in case of unlikely terminal breakage. 30 Years experience as a broadcast engineer has taught me a few things about terminals and connectors.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 17, 2013 8:22:03 GMT -5
All I can say is that for the last 32 years of automotive repairing I have never had a failure doing it my way.
So take your pick.
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Post by jspbtown on Apr 17, 2013 8:27:29 GMT -5
How about these cars rarely (Jeff Troy excluded) ever see enough miles to make a difference?
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