|
|
Post by whiskeylips on Sept 24, 2012 19:12:45 GMT -5
Well got the doors on and the alternator installed  next to get all the lights and turn signals wired up jus doin a lil at a time and maybe soon a radio and some boom boom lol. Its been such a joy driving this car around im lucky too cause there is hardly any rust and nothing is leaking underneath im happy with this vehicle Attachments:
|
|
|
|
Post by whiskeylips on Oct 2, 2012 19:39:08 GMT -5
I had to pull back on getting all the lights wired up unfortunatly due to fund shortage i had a lil incident with my breaking system giving out and did a ditch dive to save it from being tboned on the highway no damage all that happened was it bent my old exhaust outa place a lil but i got a new one ready to be installed and i got all new brake comppnents except for the lines cause they are fairly new anyways. Im jus fortunate i didnt get smashed
|
|
|
|
Post by cocacoladodge on Oct 5, 2012 10:02:10 GMT -5
You got VERY LUCKY, just glad that you didn't get hurt, and the BGT2 is fine. Do you have your handbrake hooked up? I know its not as good as the real brakes, but it is pretty effective if you know you have an issue and give your self enough time to stop. I just recently got my brakes working correctly so I didn't have to use the hand for ALL of my braking... Be careful and hope you get the air (or other bugs) worked out .
|
|
|
|
Post by whiskeylips on Oct 5, 2012 14:45:56 GMT -5
Lol not even hand brake i had to drive it a few times tryin to get a shop to do the work but finally gave in and im doing it myself. After driving across the county a couple of time it was time i jus did it
|
|
|
|
Post by whiskeylips on Oct 6, 2012 20:54:29 GMT -5
And im asking for help again i gotta change out my brakes how do i get the drum off its a1972 beetle frame and its not like most drums im used to
|
|
|
|
Post by Dan MacMillan on Oct 7, 2012 7:44:19 GMT -5
Front drums----remove the wheel bearing nut...the one on the left/drivers side is left hand thread.Loosen the pinch bolt then remove the nut.
Rear drums===remove the axle nut..This nut MUST be retorqued to 250 ft/lbs or the axle will tear the splines out of the drum.
|
|
|
|
Post by whiskeylips on Oct 28, 2012 21:48:42 GMT -5
Yay 2 days of doing electrical and it finally runs again lol i stripped 90% of the wiring out i did reuse some of it since it was still in good condition i seperated the main harness going the body into 3 clusters main power, ignition, and lighting. I was thinking about removing the head lights and assemblies and going with something very low profile any recomendations
|
|
|
|
Post by whiskeylips on Oct 30, 2012 10:06:52 GMT -5
What do you think about the motor and how would i install a cabin heater any suggestions Attachments:
|
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Oct 30, 2012 11:58:44 GMT -5
You would need to install the heater boxes like these: www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D043%2D255%2D107%2DDXOr the heavy duty versions. Then you need a ducted shroud if you don't have one (tough to tell from your picture). Then you need to run the cables to the handles on your ebrake handle(you should have two handles on the sides of your ebrake handle). Then you can run flexible ductwork into the cabin. Regarding your headlights. Many states require a minimum height for headlights. You might want to check that out before you modify anything. One heater box is often used for the defroster while the other is for heating the cabin. |
|
|
|
Post by whiskeylips on Oct 30, 2012 13:06:02 GMT -5
Ok so am i correct in thinking its part of the exhaust manifold for the front 2 cylinders?
|
|
|
|
Post by centralvalleygter on Oct 30, 2012 15:05:04 GMT -5
I actually used the oil to heat the interior of my BaHa bug. I put a small radiator type (not tube multi-pass type) cooler in a box with baffle valves on the intake and exhuast sides which allow the intake to come from inside the cabin or outside and the exhaust to go to the heater/defroster plumbing inside or directly outside. When I wanted heat I set the baffles (via cable knobs) to inside, during the summer I set them to outside. I had the typical booster fans you can buy on the exhaust side right out of the box. Worked well here where the coldest we get is in the upper twenties. However, I am using the stock vw setup in my Bradley.
Warmest Regards,
Steven
|
|
|
|
Post by Roodog on Nov 11, 2012 14:06:29 GMT -5
Wow what was that?  What a mouth full. I love the Idea of a oil heat system for my Bradley but am perplexed on how to work one without over cooling the engine. I would love to hear how you work yours in slow mans terms  . And these fans that you speak of to help push the air, where would I find such a thing. |
|
|
|
Post by centralvalleygter on Nov 11, 2012 23:02:46 GMT -5
I'll try to post a schematic when I get a chance. You can catch a glimpse of the box and one of the blowers (and control panel) at the bottom of the following web page. www.swrnet.life/vw/index.htmlI actually had four fans on my system, two on the intake side and two on the exhaust side. The intake side were blade type, but I don't really think they were necessary. The exhaust side were the cage type, which have much more "persistence" with respect to pushing air through ducting. I obtained the fans and the vent control valves (actually exhaust cut-outs) from JC Whitney. Warmest Regards.... |
|
|
|
Post by Roodog on Nov 13, 2012 16:44:12 GMT -5
Nice I'm needing a fan to push the heat threw the Bradley. I live here in Colorado and its around 35deg now and would like to drive the little car but freezzz something not right when I do. Would be nice to be able to run a oil system next to the air system.
|
|
|
|
Post by horen2tas on Nov 13, 2012 20:41:49 GMT -5
I went through many winters in the Catskills with vw sedan as well as a bus. Temps sometimes went to 16 below zero. The solution I liked best was to re-tube the 2 heater tubes straight into the passenger compartment from the heater boxes. On my bus I joined them inside with a "Y" fitting and had a blower motor with a switch on the dash. from the blower I ran a tube right up to the driver area. You have to get a little creative when you need defrosters but this fix is fairly easy (as well as down & dirty) I also wired my heater box control arms in the open position for the winter. When Spring came and I didn't need all that heat I'd spend about 20 minutes and go back to the normal heat channels & defrosters. With this set up you can be up and running without a lot of fancy contraptions & cost. Another trick I used was to start the motor about 10 minutes before I was ready to roll, have some coffee and then take off in a semi warm car and as soon as I was highway bound I was toasty warm.
Hope this helps to get you up and running on those cold Colorado mornings
|
|
|
|
Post by smyrnaguy on Nov 14, 2012 8:31:26 GMT -5
The heater cables on my car are frozen and cut off at the frame horns. I mounted an electric window mechanism on top of the transmission that pulls open the flaps on the heater boxes. I've crawled under more bugs and vans than I can count to wire the boxes open and to cut the wire later but in a tiny little greenhouse-like car the need to have heat at this time of year can change from hour to hour and I don't like slithering under cars any more.
|
|
|
|
Post by Roodog on Nov 15, 2012 22:12:47 GMT -5
Ya I can feel the heat nice and warm right at the vents. It's like they need a little push to get out of the vents. I think I'm going to make a little trip down to the junk yard and see what I can find.
|
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Nov 16, 2012 6:57:21 GMT -5
Ya I can feel the heat nice and warm right at the vents. It's like they need a little push to get out of the vents. I think I'm going to make a little trip down to the junk yard and see what I can find. Look for a Ford Explorer center console. there is a blower motor under it to blow the heat-AC to the people in the back. Pain in the a** to remove it. I have 2 extra cheap from my Ranger projects. Pm for info. |
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Nov 16, 2012 8:22:33 GMT -5
There are marine blowers as well that will fit right inline with the heater ducting that do a great job as well.
|
|
|
|
Post by Roodog on Nov 16, 2012 19:53:43 GMT -5
Well indeed I found a ford ranger with the blower and after jacking with it I finely was able to pull it out. I got it home and tested it out and for the love of god does it sequel WOW. Good times though I think I will be able to make it work after a little work.
|
|
next to get all the lights and turn signals wired up jus doin a lil at a time and maybe soon a radio and some boom boom lol. Its been such a joy driving this car around im lucky too cause there is hardly any rust and nothing is leaking underneath im happy with this vehicle
What a mouth full. I love the Idea of a oil heat system for my Bradley but am perplexed on how to work one without over cooling the engine. I would love to hear how you work yours in slow mans terms 
. And these fans that you speak of to help push the air, where would I find such a thing.
