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Post by gitrdun on Jan 2, 2012 19:17:30 GMT -5
My Bradley has one wing thats good as new and the other has a big chunk missing where the hinge was mounted to it. I dont have the $ to buy a new wing so im looking for ideas on how to fix it cheap and easy. I thought of mounting a plate of sheet metal on top of each wing which should add a little rigidity as well as give me something to bolt a new hinge to. I would like to cover the top of the wings so they are not see through, id like it to look more like an actual door than a big chunk of clear plexi. I thought of just using black out window tint on the tops and around the bottom and side edges to make it look more like a door but i would still need to fix the missing chunk to attach a new hinge.
Im up for suggestions if somebody has a better idea or maybe someone has done this before.
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Post by whcgt on Jan 2, 2012 19:29:28 GMT -5
If you have worked with fiberglass before...you may take your doors off & use them as templates. Lay fiberglass over them, until you have several layers built up...then cut out the side window area & then go get new plexiglass at a plexiglass supply store. It takes along time to build up the layers of fiberglass...as each layer must cure. You need the doors to be 1/4" to 3/8" thick. There are several types & thicknesses of fiberglass material with which to work with. You or course, must do this work in a temperature controlled environment...as fiberglass cures within specific temperature range. Then you must trim/sand and put a gelcoat on your doors & let everthing cure up nicely...then sand & then paint them. They will be very strong & much lighter than 100% plexiglass doors. They will help to keep the sun off of you in the summertime.
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Post by whcgt on Jan 2, 2012 19:54:54 GMT -5
Plexiglass, has an oily film within the plastic itself, however you may still need to use a mold release before laying up your fiberglass. You may use paperboard & tape...to create a flange around the perimeter of your plexiglass doors. This will help keep your fiberglass in place, as you are layering your fiberglass. Very distintive sweet smell with fiberglass as you work with it & as it cures. As soon as that sweet smell is not the predominate smell that you smell, you may then proceed to the next layer. If the fiberglass has that sweet smell & is hot to the touch...leave it alone & let it cure. Once you have 1/4" to 3/8" built up...it is time to create a flange along the side area..where your plexiglass windows will fit into(you may use 1/8" plexiglass for your side windows). It may take you 2 weeks to a month before you will have your new fiberglass doors...ready for paint & put back on your Bradley GT.
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Post by gitrdun on Jan 2, 2012 20:49:44 GMT -5
I thought of doing exactly that but i kinda figured the cost of that much fiber and epoxy would probably be about as much as buying a new plexi wing. I have 0 experience with fiberglass so i dont know i could be wrong. If i cant come up with something simple and easy i probably will go the fiberglass route if the cost isnt prohibitive.
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jan 2, 2012 20:59:49 GMT -5
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Post by gitrdun on Jan 2, 2012 21:53:29 GMT -5
That looks nice. I think ill price some stainless sheet tomorrow.
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Post by jspbtown on Jan 2, 2012 23:37:33 GMT -5
"It takes along time to build up the layers of fiberglass...as each layer must cure."
whcgt..are you saying you can only lay 1 layer at a time of matt/resin?
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Post by whcgt on Jan 3, 2012 0:49:48 GMT -5
You can start with a thin layer...then add thicker woven mat in the middle layers to build up thickness. Then you can finish with thinner layers & gelcoat. As I know that you know(jspbtown)...there are indeed different types of resins that can be used with the fiberglass, some allowing you to lay up layers without waiting for a full cure of the previous layer. I like to wait for each layer to cure personally, whenever I am doing fiberglass work. This is to avoid shrinking & warping of what I am working on...& to have a very strong repair with not to much resin & not to little & no air bubbles.
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Post by cocacoladodge on Jan 3, 2012 11:40:35 GMT -5
The stainless supports look nice, I have been thinking of something simular with polished diamond plate. Of course it would be interesting to see what the fiberglass top with plexi sides would look like. does anyone have pictures of what this looks like?
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jan 3, 2012 12:12:51 GMT -5
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Post by gitrdun on Jan 3, 2012 15:50:21 GMT -5
Wow, that is amazing work.
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Post by jspbtown on Jan 4, 2012 9:17:38 GMT -5
" I like to wait for each layer to cure personally, whenever I am doing fiberglass work. "
How do you ensure adhesion between the layers? If the resin is cured then you won't get a chemical bond so do you rely on a mechanical bond? How do you achieve that so it was delaminate?
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Post by cocacoladodge on Jan 4, 2012 9:44:11 GMT -5
I've never seen so many Bradleys in one place, where was that carshow at? the closest VW event to where I live is the Spring and Fall BUG RUN at the US-131 Motorsports park/ Dragstrip in Martin, MI. I've aways been a spectator, but this year I'm taking one of my Bradleys to it. I've never seen one there so it will be interesting to see peoples reactions to it, not to mention to see how she does on the dragstrip (any participants in the show can run their Bug/Buggy/or whatever they have. Last time I was there, I saw a KarmenGhia do the 1/4 in 7.14sec... It was a fun day. They have a swapmeet area too.
Sorry, I didn't intend on changing the subject from the doors to carshows, its just great seeing new ideas... Thank you for sharing the pictures.
-Bob
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Post by whcgt on Jan 4, 2012 9:53:01 GMT -5
Using an old paint brush, wetting the surface with the resin...then appling the nest layer of fiberglass material & wetting that out. Appling 1/4" to 3/8" thickness fiberglass/resin...all at once, leads to to much shrinkage & warping(plus a much, much longer cure time). You can wait for each layer to be tacky/sticky to the touch, then apply a new layer. I have not had any delamination problems with with my fiberglass work that I have done. If it is an old fiberglass repair that I am doing..I rough sand the surface pryor to making my fiberglass repair.
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Post by jspbtown on Jan 4, 2012 9:58:33 GMT -5
So you just lay the next layer directly on top of the prior, already cured layer?
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Post by whcgt on Jan 4, 2012 10:11:15 GMT -5
I rough sand the surface, so it is nice and dry, then I wet it out with resin, then I apply the next layer of fiberglass mat, then I wet the mat out with resin. Not to much, not to little. I like to only do a layer or two at a time, for a fast & even cure. I like to use the recommended catylist to resin amount when I work with fiberglass.
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Post by jspbtown on Jan 4, 2012 10:27:23 GMT -5
Ok...so you do sand in between layers to create a mechanical adhesion.
Just wanted to clarify for others on the board.
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Post by whcgt on Jan 4, 2012 10:27:50 GMT -5
I did a very unique & interesting repair to a Bradley GT2 that I had. It had a crack/fracture from the top of the wheelwell to to top of the curved front wing(about an 8" crack). I drilled holes along the entire length of the crack on both sides of the fracture. I then used a bunch of shoe strings, with a large group a knots on the ends of the shoe strings. I ran the shoe strings through the holes & connected them to the wheel of my car. I then turned the steering wheel until the fractures were lined up evenly. I then repaired the fiberglass from the underside of the body. It took around 3 days worth of building up the layers, but it turned out nice and strong. By keeping torque on the shoe strings, I was able to overcome the force of the convex & compound curvature problems, & keep the edges of the fracture lined up evenly, so I could make my repair. Without the shoe strings, the crack was about an 1" to 1 1/2" off, from lining up.
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Post by skip20 on Jan 4, 2012 12:15:08 GMT -5
So you just lay the next layer directly on top of the prior, already cured layer? Read about all the fiberglass I',m doing on my post. |
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jan 4, 2012 12:15:10 GMT -5
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Post by whcgt on Jan 4, 2012 12:36:06 GMT -5
Ok...so you do sand in between layers to create a mechanical adhesion. Just wanted to clarify for others on the board. I sure do. I buy those round sanding discs & stick them to the palm of my hand, then I sand the surface, for the next layer. |
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Post by cocacoladodge on Jan 5, 2012 4:54:15 GMT -5
-Gary
Thank you for sharing that website with the 2004 group. its nice to see everyone getting together like that, with pictures of the people I can connect screen names and images of their cars together, very cool!
Sorry again for getting off the main topic here, I just get excited about anything at all to do with the Bradley.
-Bob
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