|
|
Post by wvcruffler on Aug 23, 2009 13:09:14 GMT -5
 I tried to move my GT1 from the basement today and when I put it in reverse, it was obvious that one of the rear wheels was frozen. What is the easiest way to troubleshoot this issue? In the four years I have owned this car I never had a similar problem, but I never let it sit this long either. Thanks for any help! Dr.Phil
|
|
|
|
Post by Gary Hammond on Aug 23, 2009 15:20:32 GMT -5
Hi Dr. Phil,  If it was sitting with the emergency brake on all that time, the cable and/or brake linkage may be stuck. If the brake wasn't set, it's probably just the brake drum rusted up. Both problems are real common on these. Penetrating oil will help free up cable and linkage problems. For a rusted up drum, pull the wheel and lightly tap the drum with a hammer to knock the rust loose. Keep trying to turn the drum between every few taps and it should break loose after a few trys. Gary Hammond,   |
|
|
|
Post by wvcruffler on Sept 7, 2009 14:20:29 GMT -5
OK, it's the rear passenger side wheel and I can't get it free. I banged it with a hammer and it has not come free. I even sprayed a little carb cleaner into it and still not free. I put a pipe wrench on the nut to the wheel drum and tryed to remove it (this is lefty-loosey, righty tighty right?) and despite much banging and wrenching I can't get it off (I did remove the cotter pin). OK, what is next? Remove the back plate? Off to mom's for dinner then back at it!!
Dr.Phil
|
|
|
|
Post by horen2tas on Sept 7, 2009 16:39:34 GMT -5
I can tell you from experience that that gland nut is not coming off with a pipe wrench. A good investment is the right size socket (black-impact variety is cheaper than chrome version) a 2' breaker bar and a 6' pipe to slip over the breaker bar, and at that you will most likely have to stand on the end of the bar and jump up and down a few times. I think the size is either 19 0r 21 mm, The John Muir book, "How to fix your VW for the compleat idiot" does a really good job of describing this operation.
Good Luck!
|
|
|
|
Post by wvcruffler on Sept 7, 2009 18:13:22 GMT -5
hahaha! 36mm and 2' breaker bar with my 195# body = 1 win nut. Then I used a block and hammer to remove the drum. Now it's off and I need to figure out, since I'm in here, what might need repair/replaced.
Phil
|
|
|
|
Post by wvcruffler on Sept 7, 2009 19:55:47 GMT -5
OK, so what I did was remove the pads and reassemble the wheel sans pads. Then started and moved the car out and up into my main garage where I can work on it. Now the 91 Acura Legend goes into the basement for storage until I can afford some interior for it. Now THAT is one badass ride. My dad bought it new and it only has 80K miles. Needs new front seat leathers though and I want to work more on the bradley, so into the big garage it goes. Hopefully this will be done by next spring. Then I will bring the GT2 into the upper garage. It has 4 frozen wheels. This experience has taught me much about the working of the drum system on a 69 chassis. Oh, and my little clearance adjusters are pretty frozen. Can they be screwed all the way out? I would like to remove the whole thing, replace or repack the bearings and somehow strip clean and repaint the backing plate. Media blast or easy off oven cleaner? Hmmmm.
|
|
|
|
Post by mj on Sept 11, 2009 7:47:17 GMT -5
The best investment I ever made was disk brakes for the 74 chassis. They are very easy to install, too. 'course, I got 'em when they were more reasonably priced.
|
|
|
|
Post by wvcruffler on Sept 11, 2009 12:52:55 GMT -5
The funny thing is, I have a set of disc brakes for the front, but I was waiting to do the install when I did the body off resto. Well, the body off resto is coming now, so the front disc upgrade will be done. Hate to take it off the road, but I am excited to get the new motor put in and gets the undercarriage re-blacked.
|
|
