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Post by ekanfield on Sept 28, 2011 11:59:45 GMT -5
I hope to have it done by the end of the year Attachments:
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Post by ekanfield on Sept 28, 2011 12:02:40 GMT -5
here is another Attachments:
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Post by ekanfield on Sept 28, 2011 12:03:19 GMT -5
and another Attachments:
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Post by ekanfield on Sept 28, 2011 12:08:58 GMT -5
before paint Attachments:
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Post by ekanfield on Sept 28, 2011 13:07:20 GMT -5
The blower scoop is just for show. The engine started out as a 1977 1600 Super Beatle. I sent it out to a guy in Toledo, OH that has been building racing VW engines for over 30 years. He punched it out to a 1775cc. Im not sure what cam is in it but I asked for one that had a lot of low end torque... and it does! Like I posted before I rigged the thing so I could drive it whithout the body. It comes out of the hole pretty good for a vw. The exhaust I did myself. I started with a low mount dual, cut off the mufflers leaving just enough of the 3 in tubing so that I could connect 3in. 180 degree mandrel bends to shoot it back towards the front... connected them to an "x" pipe. I bought Patriot side pipes.. cut the ends off of them.. removed the baffles and glass packing... welded them back together and paited it all with POR 15. The exhaust has no baffles or glass packing. It has a nice low rumble at idle amost like a crotch rocket, but when you stand on it it comes to life and sounds great! It was pretty simple to do. It wasn't cheap, but I think it was wort it. Here is a photo of the exhaust. Attachments:
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Post by silvergt on Oct 5, 2011 23:31:21 GMT -5
Awesome..I really like the wheels. What are they? How wide
Of tires?
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Post by big bob on Oct 7, 2011 12:22:31 GMT -5
the paint and fiberglass look awesome . way to go....
bob
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Oct 7, 2011 21:23:40 GMT -5
 How are you stopping the torsional movement of your engine from trying to twist your exhaust? On my Beetle with a similar design I installed a flex pipe so I could solid mount the side pipe. |
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Post by ekanfield on Oct 8, 2011 7:51:23 GMT -5
The wheels are from thingy Cepek, they are 16x8 Ford 5 lug pattern. Tires are 215/40/zr16's. I checked the clearances with the body on and I don’t see any problems there. It took me a long time to find these! Almost all of the aftermarket wheels are made for front wheel drive cars so the back spacing is way too much for a vw. You can find chromed steel or painted wheels, but I have invested way too much to have those steel wheels rust on me after a year or two. I have driven the car without the body and with that wheel/tire combination it feels like there is no suspension but this is not my every day driver and I'm not going to take it off road... I also added the wheel covers to the inside so those ugly brake drums don’t show.. I think they were 10-15 each, but well worth the money. Most people notice the wheels right off the bat.. So I think the $1,000 spent was well worth it! I hope this helps!
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Post by ekanfield on Oct 8, 2011 7:59:00 GMT -5
The fist thing I did was install all new urathane mounts on the engine and trans. If you look under a newer mustang they us these big rubber puck exhaust hangers. I got a couple of them and made some hangers with I think 3/8 round bar. I bent and welded the round bar just under the trans and "hung" the exhaust from there. No problems so far.
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Post by smyrnaguy on Oct 8, 2011 20:30:01 GMT -5
I wouldnt recommend using urethane for anything other than floor finishes and roller skate wheels. The parts look pretty and colorful but urethane tends to tear when stressed and vibrated. Its hard to beat the newer style OEM mounts. For street use however urethane will probably last for several years. Offroad, several minutes to perhaps a year depending on conditions. Never ever under any conditions use a urethane steering coupler (or hockey puck). They are unsafe at any speed and under any condition.
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