geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Oct 29, 2017 1:38:12 GMT -5
Thanks for that update skip. We can refer all GT2 questions about it to this post. LOTS of work.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Oct 11, 2017 1:32:47 GMT -5
Hi Josh. Welcome to the forum. I am glad you found it. The trick too add oil is: Open the bottle, set ti up against the filler neck and start to tip in in, the cap should be the top corner if the oil bottle is at a 45(+/-). Tip the bottle further, addin the oil to the engine. Then, as the oil runs out (and, hopefully into the engine) rotate the bottle so less and less oil is in the area below the neck. The 'belly' as I call it. You can get MOST of the oil out of the bottle and into the engine that way.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Oct 3, 2017 21:58:54 GMT -5
There have been people in the past who used the windshield from another car. The story was on the now defunct (I think) GTII website. I have no clue but the 300ZX is what is popping into my head. It was close. Close enough to allow the body to be modified to match the not quite right windshield. You say you are stubborn... this will prove it. Start by making a cardboard template, then start test fitting to various cars to find a car that is close. Think of it as one of the "Wonders of Fiberglass".
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Oct 3, 2017 21:46:43 GMT -5
Like the title says, I sold my Bradley GT today. I gave the guy a good deal. He knows VW's and his dad has a Lambo kitcar so it is going somewhere that will understand all the unique properties of the Bradley car. As I stood and watched it drive away, I felt a huge pang of sadness. That is the first time, since it was built and driven in 2002, 15 years, that anyone else has ever driven it. I also noted that the little very yellow beastie seemed happy as it rolled away and turned the corner.
I had as many real cars as I had die-cast models and it just stayed in the garage.
I will still check in from time to time. Look for a new member soon.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Sept 12, 2017 2:07:53 GMT -5
A GT1 is a racecar shaped dunebuggy. NO NOT THINK OF IT AS A CAR! Simple, easy to repair, easy to modify, easy to find parts for, easy to make parts you cannot find. NOT comfortable. Very cool, but makes you pay dearly for it.
A GT2 is a fiberglass car. More comfortable, has much harder to repair problems endemic to its body. Is hard or impossible (windshield) to find parts for if not complete, is much harder to repair, is much more comfortable/heavy/roomy.
That is it in a nutshell. Why, you got one of each to choose from?
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Sept 12, 2017 1:56:55 GMT -5
I sat on the floor! Bolted a seatback in from a boat and put a cushion on the floor. It is not as weird or as uncomfortable as it sounds.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Mar 22, 2016 21:11:11 GMT -5
I Paid 200 for mine. It had 1 door and the windshield but no headlight mechanisms.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Mar 11, 2016 1:08:37 GMT -5
If you have ever run over your OWN FOOT pushing your car into the garage, because getting into it, starting it, and getting back out was too much hassle...
You might just drive a Bradley GT.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Mar 11, 2016 1:04:12 GMT -5
Been there, did that, changed nothing else.
Leads to a very pronounced front brake bias.
Look into either a biasing valve, T3 rear brakes (1 inch larger diameter) or go to rear brakes. I am planing on one of those myself.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Mar 11, 2016 0:59:52 GMT -5
I'll second the stock 1600 Guess. It's a good one.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Oct 25, 2014 20:09:59 GMT -5
Hello JJ, I live in Pismo, we have to get together sometime, even though my brad is in Bakersfield.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Oct 5, 2014 21:40:53 GMT -5
The way VW engines drop and swap pistons, and cylinders and, to a lesser extent crankshafts, you will have NO IDEA what is in it until you take it apart and check both cylinder bore and stroke. Then you will know what is in the engine and what to order for it.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Aug 10, 2014 22:15:26 GMT -5
Jeff Troy ran a 1776 for years and several hundreds of thousands of miles. Great engine. The lightness of the car allows these engines to really get up and move.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on May 31, 2014 1:39:51 GMT -5
Before you go to the trouble of "separating the top and bottom" go get yourself a cheap electronic indoor/outdoor thermometer. put it in your car and put the probe near the fan intake. Go for a drive. check to see what the difference in between the ambient temp and your under hood temp as you roll. Mine was only about 4 degrees warmer in the engine compartment while at speed. If yours is close, then 'heat recycling' is not your problem.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on May 21, 2014 19:37:42 GMT -5
The holes are for the vents, the vents connected to the engine and used its fans to push hot air into the cabin. It is an anemic setup that is directly dependent on the engines RPM's for flow. I have put the inline "booster" fans into mine. They are the cheap bilge type. They are noisy, move very little air and if the engine is running so slow that they are needed, it is not putting out alot of heat anyway.
Make sure the hoses from the engine fan are connected to the heat-exchangers even if there is no ducts into the cabin. The engine fan continuously pushes air over the heat-exchangers even when the air is not going into the cabin. If they are disconnected, the heat-exchangers overheat.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on May 9, 2014 0:34:54 GMT -5
#1 Covered #2 Body lift/floor drop, 1-3 inches the angles on the tunnel cause a few problems with even weight distribution. #3 Center of gravity makes a rollover very unlikely, you are much more likely to be run (literally) over in any accident. #4 At least from '69 up they had an expanded section to give a little "collapse" in an accident. #5 Engine overheating in not an issue. I have no special system, at speed, engine compartment is only a few degrees more than ambient. #6 Make the filler go straight down to the bottom of the tank, use the current location as a vapor return vent. #7 get them from a self service junkyard. Have measurements in mind. #8 contacts in trans #9 Re-enforce the fenders and block the body to use the rear shock towers for added support. Like Jeff Troy wisely said "A Bradley is NOT the car you want to take into an accident." I think of it as a motorcycle that cannot fall over.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Apr 28, 2014 0:09:36 GMT -5
I just used 2 pull tight latches at the bottom of the pillars. The interaction between the top edge and the bottom edge ensures it will not come loose. It held through 115 MPH, which is the fastest I will EVER go in that thing.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Apr 27, 2014 23:25:37 GMT -5
I looked at that picture for a long time. They must be using the photo-chromic adaptive camouflage, I couldn't find the plane.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Apr 27, 2014 22:53:34 GMT -5
Yes, it could work. NO! it would not be easy.
You would do better to keep the transverse mounting if you tried it.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Apr 27, 2014 22:43:56 GMT -5
Well, it has been a while since I have posted here. I looked at this idea closely years ago when I drove the Brad regularly. I came to the conclusion that window actuators mounted inside the rear pillar would work best. I figured the motor would be on the floor with the top of the guide up nest to the roof. an extension pole would then run from the interface plate to the door. This would be a telescoping shaft with a pin through it. In case of failure all I would have to do is pull the pin and the door would be operable manually. The doors are light so the window actuator should work fine. If not though, I would add a spring from the trunk of a compact car. They would run along the roof and if they are too strong for a balance, you could grind the long shaft thinner.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Sept 14, 2012 22:21:07 GMT -5
Your condenser might be going bad. This would cause both the bad points and erratic firing.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Sept 14, 2012 21:44:44 GMT -5
Here are the doors. Same as above. Welcome to the forum. Attachments:
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Sept 14, 2012 21:40:29 GMT -5
There is a company that again is making doors and rear windows. They were not for a long time. I had to make my own. They are marine grade plywood with fiderglass overlaid. They are lighter than I expected and pretty strong. The rear window was made from plat plexi stock joined by 2 aluminum braces on each side. Not great but workable. PM or email me for more detailed directions. Attachments:
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Sept 14, 2012 20:59:30 GMT -5
Here is the rear end. When running, it looks like a turbine. I did a few checks regarding air tempurature, I had probes under ouside and at the fan intakes (t1 & t3) air was 2 deg cooler with this setup. Of course a GTII would keep the tail covered. Attachments:
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Sept 14, 2012 20:50:01 GMT -5
HA HA HA LMAO! Now I get it! I was looking for some type of pit in the dash!
As for conversions, alternetor conversions are easy, just remember that power must go through a small light (warning light) where the bulb is a resistor. You can also convert to a type '3' system where the fan is really large and is mounted directly to the crankshaft the belt only drives the alternator or generator.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Jul 17, 2012 23:53:13 GMT -5
Welcome back LT!!
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Jul 17, 2012 23:42:02 GMT -5
Take it with you on an airplane and get a speed reading then freak people out showing the recorded max!!
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Jul 14, 2012 19:49:49 GMT -5
I have taken an electronic thermometer and placed the probe in the engine compartment and the main thermometer in the drivers compartment. I never saw a difference that exceeded 12 degrees. Considering the lightness of the GT, and engine load, sealing is not critical to engine survival.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Nov 28, 2011 22:12:19 GMT -5
Here is how I handled the T-III fan. Clearly, I need to work on the cover. The aluminum hides all belt issues. As far as I concerned, a serpentine belt could be put on the "pulley fan". 1) Find a serpentine pulley slightly larger than the outside of the pulley fan. 2) Put the pulley fan on a lathe and machine the edge to a set diameter. 3) Cut the found serpentine pulley such that it will set up an interference fit and press it onto the freshly machined pulley fan edge. 4) Assemble the two parts using a hydraulic press. Note, a machine shop may be required for steps 2,3 & 4. Another issue that may occur is some sort of reduction will probably be required. The original VW used a separate pulley that was very small and mounted in the center such that the engine turned about twice the RPM's of the compressor. Attachments:
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Oct 29, 2011 22:40:05 GMT -5
I use the Compufire,"dirtibutorless" DIS-IX. It still uses the distributor as the triggering device. It sends a signal to a two coil, wasted spark type system (does not send the high voltage back through the distributor nor does it have a distributor cap). It has done well by me. My only complaint is they do not include nor offer a vacuum advance. A really good electronic engineer could design and interfacing module to add a vacuum advance though.
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