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Post by larry9j on Sept 15, 2012 17:37:31 GMT -5
Hey guys,
Cross your fingers, I rebuilt the carb today (2nd time) and the engine seems to run good, idles at about 850 rpm and dwell angle about 46 degrees. Starts right up and idles ok, you can speed the engine up and it sounds really good, let off the throttle and it drops back to 850 rpm.
I have no idea why it seems ok after the 2nd carb rebuild, the only thing I did different was use a different rebuild kit.
One problem poked its ugly head, the throttle shaft bushings now seem to be leaking as you can see it leak after the engine is shut off.
There is a big vw show in Cincinnati on 9/30 I'm going to go and see if I can find a set of dual carbs or maybe a new solex and put this old carb to RIP.
Thanks for all your help everyone.
Larry
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Post by larry9j on Sept 13, 2012 20:25:18 GMT -5
Gary,
Can you direct me to something that shows the adjustment procedure for this throttle lever with the stop screw.
I have 3 other junl 34 pict 3s and none have this lever
Thanks
Larry
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Post by larry9j on Sept 13, 2012 19:46:10 GMT -5
OK, here goes
butterfly valve in place, not bent, and working ok
throttle shaft not bent
throttle bushings in place but could be bad
idle solenoid in place and seems to be working correctly
neither carb adjustments work at all while the engine is running away
engine is running extremely rich
carb not equipped with a throttle positioner
carb does have a second lever, like a throttle lever, with its own adjustment screw, I have no idea what this lever is or its purpose
thanks,
Larry
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Post by larry9j on Sept 13, 2012 16:46:26 GMT -5
Hey Guys, Guess what, this d**n thing is running wide open again as soon as the choke opens, no way to slow it down. Carb adjustment does not have any effect. Now, why? ???did it run and idle last night. I guess the best thing is to deep six this d**n solex carb. I have been thinking about dual carbs, I have a set of dual weber 40 idfs on an Ed Roth trike and have had no problems I also have a dune buggy with an old Holley Bug Spray carb-also no problems. So it would seem like the Solex is the problem.
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Post by larry9j on Sept 12, 2012 21:24:48 GMT -5
Hey guys,
I think I have found my problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!However first things first. I would like to thank each and every one of you who responded to my cry for help, you guys are outstanding and I feel honored to be a part of such an elite group, many thanks again.
Now to the problem-- my 34 pict 3 has 3 vacuum ports on it. The one for the distributor advance and the one for distributor retard and the third one located at the base the carb on the right front-purpose unknown.
As a possibility I replaced the vacuum plugs on the advance port and the unknown port and guess what? I now have an engine that idles between 850 & 900 rpm. I ran it for almost 20 minutes and it now appeared to be ok even with the choke fully open, no more racing away.
I find in it hard to believe that these two vacuum ports could have caused my problem.
Thanks again
Larry
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Post by larry9j on Sept 10, 2012 18:59:25 GMT -5
hey guys,
the throttle spring is intact and working correctly and the carb throttle valve is closing.
I have changed a couple of plugged vacuum lines and will start it tomorrow and see what i have.
This carb has a second arm ,similiar to the throttle arm, and it has it own adjustment, but just seems to flop around. Any one know the purpose of this arm? I can't find it in an exploded view of a 34 pict 3.
Thanks for all your help
Larry
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Post by larry9j on Sept 9, 2012 19:46:06 GMT -5
engine dies
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Post by larry9j on Sept 9, 2012 16:45:54 GMT -5
ok guys,
a little update-- i checked the throttle plate in the carb and it is not stuck and seems to be operating correctly. also the spray trick is negative, probabley due to the extreme high idle speed. also could not find any apparent vacuum leaks.
a note of interest, the prior owner had the same problem but never did attempt to correct it.
thanks very much for your response to date.
larry
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Post by larry9j on Sept 8, 2012 18:18:21 GMT -5
ok, guys
the timing has been set at 2200rpm-no difference, the engine just sets there and screams away idling at least 50 mile per hour.
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Post by larry9j on Sept 8, 2012 16:33:27 GMT -5
idle speed screw is backed off and throttle cable is disconnected, still runs wide open if you open the choke. The more you open the choke the faster it runs.
The way it is now it does no good to try and adjust the carb--adjustment has no effect on engine.
Do you mean 2200-2500 rpm?
Thanks,
Larry
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Post by larry9j on Sept 8, 2012 14:57:15 GMT -5
guys,
I need help with this one. I have a 72 vw dual port 1600 engine in a Bradley gt ll that I am restoring.
My problem is with the engine, it is equipped with a 34 pict 3 carburetor (rebuilt) and an early bosch 009 distributor, and will not idle down to correct speed (800-900 rpm).
The engine starts very easy, however, only wants to run fast. The more the chocke is opened up the faster it will run . I have tried the timing at 5 degrees after tdc and 10,5 and 7.5 degrees before tdc with the same results, only wants to run wide open.
I have changed the intake boots and manifold gaskets twice with no change in engine speed.
Can anyone out there be of assistance?
Thanking you in advance for much needed help.
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Post by larry9j on Jul 3, 2012 20:38:48 GMT -5
guys,
I need the drivers side t-top for a gt ll. Anyone have one theywant to part with, please contact me.
thanks,
larry
email-larry9j1940@att.net
phone 1-937-374-0631
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Post by larry9j on Jul 1, 2012 18:56:42 GMT -5
guys,
can anyone tell me what can be used as a replacement gas cap on a gt ll original fuel tank and if it needs to be vented.
thanks
larry9j
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Post by larry9j on Apr 25, 2012 17:49:45 GMT -5
hey guys,
can anyone tell me if a Porsche flat 6 will fit in a Bradley GT ll and if so the required procedure.
thanks,
Larry
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