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Post by skip20 on Aug 22, 2012 16:45:17 GMT -5
Get a Subaru!!!
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Post by skip20 on Aug 22, 2012 16:05:27 GMT -5
No luck at all at 4 different junk yards A little hard getting my butt in gear, but have been doing a few small things, like finishing hosing up the AC to engine. And a lot of coffee & brain power! Thinking of putting the Mustang side scoops on the rear lower rocker panel. These are the open ones, so will be able to get air to the engine. Here a picture showing the molds I made for these. What they look like finished. Also thinking of doing the body work on the rear of the yellow one & make a mold of it for the Firebird/Trans Am tail lights & trunk w/ lid. Then put in on the White one. Would nee to figure out air flow for the rad with these lights.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 22, 2012 16:02:37 GMT -5
Are you SURE the spark plug wire are right & the timing is correct? I know you are sure having 2 engines to play with.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 21, 2012 20:58:32 GMT -5
HEY!!! I haven't gotten my copy yet. Got KIT CAR from Vol1 #4 up to the last issue. Now get the Kit Car Builder. Don't have the $10-50,000 those guys have to build a kit. www.kitcarclub.com
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Post by skip20 on Aug 21, 2012 7:57:43 GMT -5
Dear Jack-of-All-Trade, you better watch out! When Skip be comin home from the auto parts yard and sees what you done with his car he gonna be hoppin' ass mad! Goin and puttin all that wood in his nice car!! tsk tsk tsk! I sure wouldn't want to be in your shoes Jack
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Post by skip20 on Aug 20, 2012 17:26:06 GMT -5
Started to work on the rear firewall. This is plywood. Will be glassing the front & rear of the panel to seal it. There will also be a seal lip for the center cover. Then it will be glassed to the body.Well then be able to bolt to the roll bar for mount support on the body. You need to be a Jack-of-All-Trade to build a kit car this way.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 20, 2012 13:15:10 GMT -5
Top & bottom of the rad cooling lines are finished. Went though the rear end instead of over it. Again painted yellow to match the top & no rusty pipes later.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 20, 2012 10:14:22 GMT -5
Does anyone have a line on a set of wiring diagrams for a 1980 Bradle GT II electric. Are the VW diagrams for the base chasis usable for this? The base chassis is usable For the body. You will be using 1 - 12VDC batt. for it. The elec. for the Green machine is onto itself with it's own Batt's. Controller, batt. charger, & a few gauges. 96 - 144 volts DC is what you will want back there.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 19, 2012 16:40:42 GMT -5
God here ! Took most of the weekend off from the Bradley. But this afternoon did get the Rad Water inlet to pump started. It's the silver pipe in the picture. Need to find a hose from the pump to the pipe, but everything else is setup, but not painted yet. This was not cheap! $80.00 tube bender, on sale + 20% off $15.00 for the pipe $45.00 3 - hoses & 6 - cramps Will weld the dimple on the ends & paint them Yellow later.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 17, 2012 20:50:23 GMT -5
Hardware cloth is sheet metal that is perforated It's simular to the gutter guard but thicker. It can also come in differant patterns. Check it out online you can get it at any hardware store So that's hardware cloth! I always thought that was Holly Metal, remember this is "god"
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Post by skip20 on Aug 17, 2012 12:34:59 GMT -5
Skip, You can use hardware cloth and paint it to match you can bend it to match the contour of the body and it would look nice when finished Thanks, but what is hardware cloth
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Post by skip20 on Aug 17, 2012 5:44:24 GMT -5
Been working on the AC lines using what I have, so take some boring time tying to make things fit. So have a few pictures of the rear whit the body down.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 16, 2012 17:09:57 GMT -5
Batt. bracket is finished & painted. All welded with edges sanded & rounded over all of them. Showing off '06 Ford Ranger before I rub out the paint job. Remember, it was Yellow, then Blue & now Honda Grey met.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 16, 2012 17:02:11 GMT -5
horen2tas, I love the vents, but you to late, put holes in the lid already. Cool plex cover too. Would like to see the whole car. Maybe some day mine will look as good! ;D
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Post by skip20 on Aug 16, 2012 16:59:47 GMT -5
Hey Skip as long as you have that "New Title" I made you a few of these........ they may come in handy!!! They will come in very handy when working on the frame & straighten up, BANG, there goes my head again on the edge of the body. I have more dent in my head then the car does & it doesn't help my CRS at all. That's why I keep hitting the head or back!
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Post by skip20 on Aug 16, 2012 10:55:57 GMT -5
Here is the inside of the lid after cutting out the inside to get the air flow from the the holes in front of it. Will re-support it later. Think may go for the 6" vents later.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 16, 2012 9:41:32 GMT -5
Here the trunk (Engine) lid treatment. Got some air vents from HD 4" x 10" & grind down the side lip. Using the 4.5" cut off disc made the holes in the lid. For now the vent will be just pop riveted on. When I do the body work they will be recessed into the body & molded in. You can see the lower screen is bending all over. This is the gutter leaf guard & is to thin to work with.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 16, 2012 8:02:54 GMT -5
I like messing
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Post by skip20 on Aug 15, 2012 15:25:03 GMT -5
I like the exhaust outlets. That's the bumper brackets, which I will be keeping.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 15, 2012 15:00:57 GMT -5
Well, what I though was a Trans cooler is an oil cooler. Mounted it to the front ( Back ) of the rad. Now to figure out how to hook it up! Here is my idea for the back rocker which was cut to clear the rad. However this is NOT going to work. Stage 2 to come up with something else.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 15, 2012 14:53:54 GMT -5
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Post by skip20 on Aug 15, 2012 10:29:49 GMT -5
skip20 God ***** member is online Hey, who came up with that "God" thing?
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Post by skip20 on Aug 15, 2012 10:27:10 GMT -5
Took days off due to yard work between the rain. So today got all 6 of 1.25" rad. tube notched with welder, sanded down to smooth & reinstall the upper hoses. Started to build a Batt. holder over the trans.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 12, 2012 19:47:00 GMT -5
If you retain all of the subi wiring the fans will speed up and down. If not you will probably set an engine code. Looks like only you & me kid. Ideas on shifting cable? Gas cable?
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Post by skip20 on Aug 12, 2012 19:42:24 GMT -5
Sound great. How bout some info or web link to this Soliton Jr controller with water cooling Also pictures of motor fan cooling kit. Maybe picture of the car!
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Post by skip20 on Aug 12, 2012 14:15:17 GMT -5
That's what I was figuring, but never came across them before.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 12, 2012 14:14:06 GMT -5
Cross member is re-supported with 1" & 1/2" sq. tubing. It's now all welded & painted w/ the rad/cond. remounted.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 12, 2012 10:37:22 GMT -5
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Post by skip20 on Aug 12, 2012 10:34:04 GMT -5
After 2.5 hours of cutting & trimming, was able to get the 2 stock fans mounted. This will save about $150.00 for 2 - 13" elec. fans which still wouldn't clear trans cross member. Now will need to brace/weld the cross member repair. Don't know why yet, but these fans have 4 wires on each of them?
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Post by skip20 on Aug 11, 2012 21:35:57 GMT -5
Was never crazy about tips going up, flip them over and post pic. Tips up you have to cut the body if the mufflers are hidden. OK, tips down, but there is a drain hole on the outlet.
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