Yes well, It is just that 3 of the other tires are in great shape. Plus, when I do replace the tires, I have to go with BF Goodrich T/A tires. I have 14" wheels that are pretty wide in the rear. So, it will be costly.
I still work on it. Will be getting a replacement headlight switch next month. I have put my car cover on the car, with the weather raining for 3 days in a row. Dont worry, the Astra GT recieves attention & work all the time. You know what really sucks? I have 1 left rear tire, that has been flatspoted really bad. All the other tires are in pretty good shape. They dont even make this tire anymore. So, maybe next spring I'll get some new tires for it.
Those Deserter GT buggies, are much sought after. With the work you are doing with yours, you will get good value for it. After you have fun driving & showing it. Good work & those colors are great. Not many peeps using metallic paints these days, nice to see.
You can do a whole lot wrong. Better use a Chilton book & torque those heads back on...in the correct sequence & torque specs. You do it wrong & you can warp the magnesium heads & then you got problems.
Yeah,I think, If I remember correctly. Those old original aluminum tubes are pretty fragile & are easily damaged. So, yeah, go ahead & remove the heads then. I think those old accordian tubes, are best served in your aluminum can collection for recycling.
Heck no..you dont want those accordian original pushrod tubes. Just use the S.C.A.T. tubes & rods. I had zero problems with them on my 1500cc engine, that I had in my old Invader GT. Also, you better not use synthetic oil in your engine. You better use GTX & turn the engine over by hand a few times before trying to start it.
Yeah, maybe so. Anyhow, the round push button switch is for the engine cover release. Then I got an interior light switch, engine electrical fan switch, interior cooling fan,antenna, the 3 big round switches, are headlights,emergency lights. 1 of the 3 round switches..needs replaced with a windshield wiper switch.
When the time comes, indeed I will have diagrams of the wiring system for a new owner. Including the additional circuits as well as groundwires. It will be awhile before I were to sell it. I would like to build it & enjoy it for awhile.
Just a couple of tips. On the fuse panel where you have the red jumpers going down the one side I would lose the jumpers and spread the terminals so they touch each other then solder them toether. Also if using crimp on terminals spend a few extra dollars and et the heat shrink terminals, or strip the plasic off the plain ones-crimp-solder and heat shrink.
You know Dan, after I have finished wiring the car. I just might take your advice & take each wire & solder the copper strands within each terminal. If it is not considered over the top & unnecessary. But for now, I am just taking each task as it comes. I'll have the Astra GT up & going pretty soon.
Those are pretty good tips regarding the terminals. What I do is surgical..regarding even the cheap terminals. 1st I remove the plastic sheath from the terminal & slide it free down the wire(painfull on the fingers,many of those plastic sheaths are on there tight). 2nd I then take my needle nose plyers & take half of the terminal, where it is spilt & crush the wire in the opening.3rd I turn the terminal 90 degrees & then crush the rest of the terminal over the wire. I sort of roll the terminal metal around the copper wire, entrapping the copper strands. I then pre crush the plastic sheath & slide it over the wire & terminal area. I do solder the big gauge wires to secure them tight. I dont have any loose wires within my terminal connections. Any open circuits, of my wiring, will be do to broken copper strands , not any loose terminal to wire connections. Those jumpers wires are exactly as the 1972 VW schematic has them. I am wiring the car exactly like the 1972 VW wiring diagram schematic. I am incooperating some other circuits into it as needed. I would like any future owner to simply be able to pull up the 1972 wiring schematic & be able to solve any electrical issues with the car.
k1286: need to find body parts (gull wing doors and rear glass) for early Bradley gt, just bought this car and need help finding a source for parts
Oct 1, 2016 17:17:48 GMT -5
kitcarguy: You have to make them yourself . They are not available anymore
Oct 4, 2016 15:51:03 GMT -5
skip20: Pictures would help alot!!
Oct 5, 2016 11:17:36 GMT -5
rangerxp: I have one of your Ranger Xp's in Chico! Please reply
Oct 17, 2016 18:32:05 GMT -5
kitcarguy: What Rangerxp?
Nov 4, 2016 20:28:59 GMT -5
dx1: Just bought gt2 HOw do I know what year it is and is there an id # on the body anywhere?
Jan 6, 2017 15:44:31 GMT -5
kitcarguy: dx1 There is no way to tell what year the body is. The Dataplate (if there is one) will not give you any useful info.
Jan 10, 2017 12:13:18 GMT -5
leglehookr: does someone have an idea for a door lift replacement? I dont really care for the originals.
May 1, 2017 23:44:11 GMT -5
manwithplan: where is the serial number located on a gt2?
Jun 6, 2017 13:20:54 GMT -5
kitcarguy: Hey manwithplan mine were both in the battery area in the rear of the car (behind right tail light) If yours does not have one not to worry, they do not mean anything lol
Jun 12, 2017 14:39:09 GMT -5