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Post by bradley85 on Aug 19, 2019 11:55:10 GMT -5
Bradley GT2I recently sold my Bradley GT2 and have the following items for sale. I have 2 brand new windshields for Sale for $450.00 each. I have 1 rear hatch glass for Sale for $90.00. I have 2 rear 1/4 side windows for $50.00 each. I have 2 head light covers For $20.00 each. I also have smaller items such as switches, etc. Shipping is not included in the listed price. If you have questions, call me at 602-908-2316.
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Post by bradley85 on Feb 12, 2017 12:56:19 GMT -5
This car is one of the best I have seen of this type. Not just because I built it, but just because it is. The base for the car is a 1970 VW pan and an 1835 Bernie Bergmann Engine mated to a Freeway Flyer Transmission with IRS suspension. The car has just a bit more than 3500 miles on it. I have a library of over 700 photos of the build so there are no surprises. I could write a lot more about this car, but the photos pretty much tell the story. I do not respond to texts or e-mails from Craigslist, but you are welcome to call me at 602-908-2316 for more information. Click on the address below for photos. phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/6000501418.html
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Post by bradley85 on Dec 22, 2016 13:43:13 GMT -5
Check out my Bradley on Phoenix Craigslist at phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/5925852473.htmlI have a file of over 700 photos of this build that I can share with anyone who might be interested in purchasing the car. If you can not open the link, call me at 602-908-2316. Thanks, Greg
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Post by bradley85 on Jun 16, 2015 19:10:38 GMT -5
Bob,
We were down in Benson a couple of months ago. We were at the train station while we were there. Wish I had known about your BAT CAR then. If you will send me you e-mail address, I will send some photos of my GTll and also I will send notices of our Arizona Kit Car Club meetings in Phoenix. We would love to have you visit us sometime and show off your car. My address is whitney.gm@gmail.com
I have tried to post photos on this site, but I have not been very successful.
Gregory Whitney
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Post by bradley85 on Jun 15, 2015 9:16:24 GMT -5
Bob, Where are you in Arizona? I am in Glendale. Gregory Whitney
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Post by bradley85 on Mar 27, 2015 11:39:00 GMT -5
If anyone would like to post the photos I have of this car, send me your e-mail address and I will send them to you.
Gregory Whitney whitney.gm@gmail.com
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Post by bradley85 on Mar 14, 2015 12:24:55 GMT -5
charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/4926276641.htmlIm intrigued by it. Its easy to see the body started out in some form or another as a GT2. I emailed the seller and he said that there was a kit car mag that had all the info on this car but the scan he had was lost when his computer crashed. He also told me it was never titled and has no VIN numbers on it. It is powered by a 1988 Olds motor so the magazine would have to be after 1988 I would assume. I looked at what I have here and cant find it. Anyone have any info on this? I might be interested in it but it is a long haul to get it. Thanks This is a Bradley GTll which was modified by thingy Creighton in Phoenix Arizona in 1990-91. It was a featured car in the June 1991 KIT CAR ILLUSTRATED magazine. He named the car "MARIAH". She is built on a VW pan using a highly modified Bradley body. A 1987 Oldsmobile Trefeo K member and front end, including the 3.8 liter V6, 4 speed automatic with overdrive, and all running gear has been grafted to the rear of the VW pan. The car includes rack and pinion power steering, Hydro-boost power disc braking system, fuel injection, and the complete Oldsmobile LED computerized dash and diagnostic system. It also has cruise control, climatic air conditioning, and delay wipers This was the car as I last saw it in 1992 or 93. I can see from the Craigslist photos that some changes have been made. If you would like to see photos of the car soon after it was built, e-mail me at whitney.gm@gmail.com I have not had much luck posting on this site.
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Post by bradley85 on Oct 28, 2014 14:14:14 GMT -5
The tail lights are early Honda prelude-- nice because you can get rid of the trailer adapter in the wiring harness, and you also get back up lights and separate brake/turn and tail lights. The pop up sunroofs are knock offs from the rv window industry. I bought them several years ago from J. C. Whitney. They were made several years ago to replace the 40 percent pop out side door glass on a Chevy/GMC 60-40 percent van. You may still be able to source metal framed originals from GM or salvage yards. They are NOT easy to fit to the Bradley and require fiber glas and paint work. See photos--click to enlarge. You even have to fabricate new hinges.
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Post by bradley85 on Oct 27, 2014 12:22:54 GMT -5
Just trying to find out how to attach photos. Click the image to enlarge. Greg Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Oct 27, 2014 11:34:55 GMT -5
My Bradley GTll is on a 1970 pan. Greg Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Oct 27, 2014 10:52:18 GMT -5
Go to Google, type in VW horn installation. Lots of info there. I discovered that I had a worn steering column head bearing and it was not transmitting current to the horn. I was able to buy a new bearing from Air Head Parts. www.airheadparts.com/the-beetle-ghia-horn-systemThe horn works fine now. Good luck. Greg
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Post by bradley85 on Jan 24, 2014 17:52:04 GMT -5
I bought my center caps and tires at Discount Tire in Phoenix. You have to find a counter man who is willing to work with you. There are so many Discount Tire Stores around that you can just go to another store if you need to.
Greg
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Post by bradley85 on Jan 17, 2014 20:07:46 GMT -5
If badbrad does not have the assembly let me know. I am almost sure I have a new unit.
whitney.gm@gmail.com
Greg
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Post by bradley85 on Jun 13, 2013 14:41:07 GMT -5
Dan, I think I did exactly what you told me to, and this is what I got. Greg
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Post by bradley85 on Jun 13, 2013 12:52:37 GMT -5
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Post by bradley85 on Jun 12, 2013 19:30:39 GMT -5
My GTII does not have rubber on either side of the bearing. I could see putting a piece on the inside of the fender bulkhead to keep water out, but there shoud not be much water in that area anyway. Greg Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Jun 12, 2013 18:52:30 GMT -5
The bad news is that these windows are out of production. I bought mine from JC Whitney in late 1994 and they were a replacement for the small 40 percent side door flip-out window on the Chevy and GMC 60/40 vans of that era. Maybe some of those can still be found in junk yards and be made to work. I am going to try to post some photos. If they do not work, I will have to get some help and try later. Greg PS I have been tinkering around with this for 2 or 3 hours and I can only make single posts. I tried Wyn's suggestion and it did not work, so if anyone has the key, please let me know. Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Jun 12, 2013 14:13:27 GMT -5
OK. We got that photo to work and I have to resize most of my photos in order to get them to post. This may take awhile. The posted photo in my preceding message shows a piece of aluminum bent at a 110" radius as a form for the 2 fiberglass sheets which will become the new curved tops for the doors. More to come later. Greg Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Jun 12, 2013 14:02:28 GMT -5
Okay, I will try this one more time and if it does not work, I will have to back to school or get more help or SOMETHING. Posting photos is the bane of my existance. Greg Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Jun 12, 2013 12:21:01 GMT -5
Thanks, Will do on the toe. The tie rod is just very slightly bent and the coil/over EMPI shocks brought the front up about 1" at the lowest setting and there is an adjuster that will let me go three step higher if I ever need to. Greg
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Post by bradley85 on Jun 11, 2013 11:32:44 GMT -5
I will try once again to see if I can figure out how to successfully post photos to this site. If I can, I will try to send you some info. Greg
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Post by bradley85 on Jun 9, 2013 17:07:15 GMT -5
Sorry about the 3 post in a row. I was trying to include a photo to show the rake of the car and the program did not tell me it was posting. Greg Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Jun 9, 2013 17:03:02 GMT -5
Do any of you have a recommendation for coil/over shocks for the front of my GTII? I went completely through the front beam, ball joints, tie rods, etc. when I built the car and I just DO NOT want to go through the trouble of installing an adjustable beam. The passenger side tie rod will bump the inside fender well glass if a bump in the road is fairly severe. It has hit hard enough to put a very small bend in the tie rod. Any comments on your ideas or use of coil/overs will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Greg
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Post by bradley85 on Jan 10, 2013 9:14:57 GMT -5
Bob, Where are you located in Arizona? Greg in Glendale 602-908-2316 Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Jan 10, 2013 9:11:18 GMT -5
I am insured with Grundy Worldwide. My policy is for Collector Car Ins. and costs me less than $300 a year with a $20,000 agreed upon value. Greg Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Nov 30, 2012 12:04:29 GMT -5
The carpet has been sold. Thanks for inquiring.
Greg
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Post by bradley85 on Nov 25, 2012 19:13:26 GMT -5
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Post by bradley85 on Nov 25, 2012 11:03:20 GMT -5
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Post by bradley85 on Nov 24, 2012 19:18:26 GMT -5
Skip, I will try to get some hood photos over to Photobucket and then on hera ASAP. Still learning! Greg Attachments:
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Post by bradley85 on Nov 24, 2012 19:00:47 GMT -5
If I can get the photos to post, they are pretty easy to understand. The actuator I used is a Spal LACT4P with 4" stroke, 110 lb dynamic load, 500 lb static load, and 1/2" per second speed. I am sure other units will work with linkage adjustment, etc. The mounting bracket was fabricated of 1/4" aluminum plate TIG welded to a short piece of 1/4" angle. A piece of 1" square tubing was then bolted to the aluminum to hold the "business end" of the actuator. the bracket was then bolted to the wooden bulkhead. An aluminum extension was bolted to the original operating arm and then the light buckets were clamped in the open position and a hole location was marked for the actuating ram bolt to push and pull for opening and closing. You can see that I have removed the Bradly torsion spring and hose clamps and have substituted a coil tension spring. You may be able to get by without the spring. I think it helps. There are wiring diagrams to choose from. I used the hand drawn diagram. Go for it! Greg
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