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Post by mrbigh on Apr 4, 2011 11:15:00 GMT -5
Sharing among all of us your ideas and concepts will be beneficial to many, please do not hesitate to post drawing and photos.
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Post by mrbigh on Apr 2, 2011 10:10:54 GMT -5
New problem: the speedometer cable is now too short. Is there one for a different model that is longer? Thanks, Matt I had the same problem and replaced with a buss speedometer cable, this one is extra looooong but does the job.
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Post by mrbigh on Mar 30, 2011 20:47:51 GMT -5
yay, good. someone should make one for the GT2. you could edit the name heading to Bradley GT - GTII
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Post by mrbigh on Mar 30, 2011 12:04:26 GMT -5
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bondo
Mar 29, 2011 12:33:38 GMT -5
Post by mrbigh on Mar 29, 2011 12:33:38 GMT -5
I agree with jspbtown, rage gold is the best product
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Post by mrbigh on Mar 27, 2011 19:20:30 GMT -5
WOW!! Awesome post, Dan! This needs to be sent to every business that sells this stuff, and on the Samba.com. I really wish I would have seen this beforehand, this constant back and forth with the seller has really put a major delay in my restoration/conversion. Matt Those were emails I sent to cip. They gave me a credit for my troubles and had a few words with EMPI. They thought EMPI might give me a credit as well. EMPI gave me nothing and told cip that they {empi} were aware of the problems. Expected date to ecpect proper parts with correct inst sheets. Sometime in the next 100 years. Last summer I bought my front disk brake upgrade form CIP1 and I had NO problems whatsoever with their merchandise; these were not EMPI brand but the recommended merchandise they supply and more economic than the branded ones. Always an " A OK" service from CIP1.
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Post by mrbigh on Mar 24, 2011 10:01:49 GMT -5
What again... Enjoy your day. Hey you KIDS, Happy B'day. .
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Post by mrbigh on Mar 24, 2011 9:56:57 GMT -5
You do not have to bid but......................is a nice red GT Bradley for SALE
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Post by mrbigh on Mar 24, 2011 9:47:47 GMT -5
A link with photos will be nice and /or the eBay auction page details. Where are you located at?
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Post by mrbigh on Mar 23, 2011 12:30:32 GMT -5
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Post by mrbigh on Mar 19, 2011 14:45:31 GMT -5
There are a few things about the car that suggest it's barely been driven, namely the odometer has 121 miles on it ;D Also the guy who I got the car from has another motor for whatever reason, so if this motor fails he said I am welcome to that one. It does spin nice though. Do you know if I'll be able to use the pot box that comes with the car? It has 4 wires, I'm gunna play around with it hooked up to a volt meter and see what kind of values I get Thanks for all your help The speed control should go from 0 to 5K (5000) Ohms average and that's the standard value. Also, that pot box should have an interlock mini switch in withing the case.
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Post by mrbigh on Mar 19, 2011 14:04:54 GMT -5
That controller will take you to the winner circle; already assembled it's saving you a lot of headaches in parts ordering. Their sale price is reasonable and it's being offer a warranty. Go for it. About the motor; it should take 144VDC without any problem but so far, we do not know the commutator and brushes conditions. You will never know how abused it was or if it ever put some miles. Also, years of sitting installed in the chassis with out being use may lead to some internal insulation corrosion. To get more precise info, you will have to dismantle the motor for observation and assessment or... you could wait until the motor is spinning and take any action thereafter. PS: Ask the builder what controller board version it is and what type of semiconductors the controller has in the output power stage.
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Post by mrbigh on Mar 19, 2011 8:59:15 GMT -5
Great! One last question, how hard will it be to configure an open ReVolt? And does it really just take any voltage and use it? I was hoping to wire everything and go up and down my driveway with a few old car batteries before I spend a few hundred dollars on batteries To build the Open-Revolt is sort of complex, but the project is designed to be completed by anybody with a little background in mechanical and electrical assembly and with some sort of computer oriented knowledge. This equipment, the Open-Revolt, will work efficiently from 4 car batteries in series (48V) as a test, and as long these are charge-up, it will move you around; not at a great speed but it will with the motor you already have.
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Post by mrbigh on Mar 16, 2011 21:16:12 GMT -5
Not to disagree with Mrbigh but I use 2/0 in my Sparrow. Even then, I rarely use more than 200 amps in my bird and anticipate that I won't use much more in the Bradley. (Thundersky Batteries shouldn't go beyond 200 amps anyway unless it's "pulse.") Also I'm a Hypermiler that likes to challenge myself by seeing just how slow I can go. Who cares how slow I go if there's no one behind me? Right?? Thanks, Matt Matt, the environment of your Sparrow is much smaller than a GT II and hence, less power cables. In mine, I'm expecting to use a total of no under 30' with experimental car batteries (lead acid); with lithium you're stringing with solid or flexible straps and is a more direct and sound connection. Your is the way to go but I'm shy of $10K for the lithiums. mwilson, are you in the evalbum.com?
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Post by mrbigh on Mar 16, 2011 17:06:14 GMT -5
This is all good news, and that's a great site! An open revolt sounds like a much better deal than the curtis I was looking at, if it will work for me alex, what controller specifically are you using? And what gauge wiring is recommended for 120 or 144v? The remains of wire in my GTE aren't all that thick I'm building the newest Re-Volt controller, better spec's and lower pricing than any commercial equipment. Your best option for stringing the batteries will be 4/0 or 3/0 welding cable; it's not the matter of the voltage (144 or 72V), is the current that will go through the cables and connectors when required by the push of the speed pedal. Smaller gauge wiring will make a higher resistance and heat up the "wiring" by consequence. Remember that you will have batteries up front, in the rear deck and probably in the engine area.....It will be a lot of cable. Besides, you will have to fuse appropriately the battery power source and include a safety power disconnect in case of an EMERGENCY. Horacio
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Post by mrbigh on Mar 13, 2011 17:25:30 GMT -5
Regular flooded car batteries are the standard low budget approach. You have to paid attention to the physical sized or battery category type of these in order to make your batteries boxes; but I think you should already have some with the E type body. You must have that original charger check to verify that's in electrical OK performance. It must be already 30 years old and have some dry electrolytic capacitors. Horacio
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Post by mrbigh on Mar 10, 2011 15:49:06 GMT -5
Since I have not seen anyone making comment on getting a replacement for the Bradley GT 2 windshield. So I decided to do a little more research on the windshield. Looking at Guardian Industries web site, it said give them a call and they would give a quote for a replacement windshield so I gave them a call (1-866-999-5011 near Columbus, Ohio). Told them I was looking for a windshield for the Bradley GT 2. The person had no idea what a Bradley GT 2 was. After talking to her for awhile she gave me a number to their office in Finley, Ohio (1-800-331-8403) and talk to Josh. He ask me for the Viracon part number. I told him I would need to go down stairs to get it and would call him back. I look all over the windshield and found what I thought the number was. On the windshield ( Viracon -- Safety coated – ASI M50 DOT129). He said the number was not listed. Since I was just one individual and the most maybe one sale he did not want give me any prices. I told him I knew they had the tooling and it would cost $4000 to program the robots what would it cost to make a run for the windshield. He said it would be in the thousands maybe $50,000. He said they really did not want to work with Kitcars. I ask if he knew of any ware else that could help for the windshield. He gave me another number (1-973-450-4933) and ask for a Lee. The only thing they would tell me was to go to Ebay. So there is no help on a replacement windshield for the GT2. The only thing to do is make the windshield out of Plexiglas, and Don’t tell the police. If someone wants to try a $50,000 purchase or more, Go ahead and give it a try. I want one spare as long as the price does not go over $500 ea. Wyn This news really sucks...........
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Post by mrbigh on Mar 10, 2011 13:53:28 GMT -5
Hey There, Looking for a GT2 manual and at least a Bradley hood emblem. If anyone has some out there for a decent price feel free to let me know. Thanks Get in contact with Bob Evans.............member of this forum
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test
Mar 2, 2011 9:34:11 GMT -5
Post by mrbigh on Mar 2, 2011 9:34:11 GMT -5
Uhmmmm....I see you..
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Post by mrbigh on Mar 1, 2011 22:54:48 GMT -5
Ohhh yeah.... these are " slightly better pictures of the painted Avenger "
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Post by mrbigh on Mar 1, 2011 22:50:10 GMT -5
I took my nasty old generator from my nasty old engine and put it on my bench. Grounded DF to case...Hooked DVOM, - to ground, + to D+. Hand spun it. WIth just a hand spin, she shows .08 volts. The generator on the car wont even do that. I think I have my culprit. Does the generator has a set of brushes like mine? I replaced the "broken" ones and everything came back to live with a nice voltage to the regulator........
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Post by mrbigh on Feb 24, 2011 12:01:14 GMT -5
put em together and drive that thang! All in good time. This is going together once. I still have a bit of under dash work to complete. Got a couple hours in today. Reassembled and sealed the fresh air blower box, installed the blower, and repaired the wiring to the blower. I also molded the 2 speaker enclosures for the front "kick panel" speakers out of fiberglass. I am normally off for 5 days this week but have decided to go in for two night shifts [Thurs/Fri], so I won't be back on it till Saturday. The goal is to complete the under dash and lower the body onto the chassis by Sunday night. Dan How this blower box mounts on the body? Mine is there but I remember that I had a whining noise after a while of switched on, I may have to lubricate the motor's bearings and shaft. While there and exposed, some pictures will help. Thanks
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Post by mrbigh on Feb 18, 2011 10:20:28 GMT -5
fresh fuel and a new gas filter might cure this "ill" engine, replace the air filter also.
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Post by mrbigh on Feb 15, 2011 13:53:13 GMT -5
Happiness and good health to the birthday boys!!!
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Post by mrbigh on Feb 9, 2011 11:51:37 GMT -5
That it is a really great piece of "art", what a landing!!!!
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Post by mrbigh on Feb 2, 2011 1:53:37 GMT -5
............ So unless I suddenly get real limber its back to the drawing board. Now I'm thinking it has to be a 2 stage thing; kind of a lift and flip. Pneumatic maybe? Drawing board, Hummm; re-think on the square tubing build
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Post by mrbigh on Feb 1, 2011 13:13:24 GMT -5
looks nice and defiant, is the 1/2" EMT structure rigid enough? I'm anxious to see the final project.
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Post by mrbigh on Jan 21, 2011 16:30:09 GMT -5
i tried to warn everyone last night. but someone must have removed.my security always warned me not to come here, but i ignored it and got a bad trojan. i tried to re format and it even blocks you from that. i am about to replace hard drive, but wanted to warn again while still infected. LISTEN TO WHAT YOUR SECURITY TELLS YOU! No virus or malware here neither and I'm 14 hrs on line at Bradley GT.com
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Post by mrbigh on Jan 14, 2011 8:17:36 GMT -5
looking for the bradley gt decals that go on sides of car. anyone know where to get? also interested in a tan seat cover in decent shape. thanks If you're looking for something like the one in my car, get in contact with SKIP20, member of this forum. . . .
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Post by mrbigh on Jan 14, 2011 8:13:14 GMT -5
This is how Bradley's were build, NOT
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