As a note to myself till I get to the office I still have the following to finish...
Wire Tach Wire turn signals (looks fun) Get shifter powder coated get rims off the other Bradley for sandblasting and powder coating figure out why I still have no brakes install window seal and trim wire windshield wipers figure out why brake lights wont work(suggestions)
And I think that might be it. After that little list I should be done. So I hope anyway.
Post by richardevers on Nov 17, 2011 8:30:46 GMT -5
"figure out why brake lights wont work(suggestions)" You may not have a good ground on the brake lights, or your switch may be bad. first check for power at the bulb when the brakes are pressed. I you have power at the bulb, then you probible have a ground problem. If you dont have power at the bulb, check for power at the input to the brake switch. If you have power at the input, press the switch and see if you have power at the out put. If you have power at the out put of the switch and you still dont have power at the bulb , its in the wiring to the bulb. If you dont have power at the input to the switch, check the wiring from the fuse to the switch. Thanks, Rick
I would say two things on your list are linked. Brakes won't work and no brake lights. I would say you have air or air leak in the master cylinder. Or you have a bad one all together. Fluid might be slipping past the pistons. This is causing a lack of pressure that is causing the brakes to failing because the brake light switch is a pressure switch it is not activating. Just my thought. Eric A
Failed switches are very common. Even if they are new. I would check for power at the switch first. Then, since you really can't "press the switch" (it senses hydraulic pressure) I would have someone press the brakes and check for out put of power on the other tab.
Do you have two switches on the master cylinder? if so then try the other one. You really don't have to use two unless you are using the warning light (most people don't).
Of course it could related to the no brakes either. if your not building pressure the switch won't work. Whats wrong with your brakes?
Brakes have all brand new lines, Master cylinder, and two switches. After bleeding them they are hard as a rock and when pressed the car will barely stop. It also appears to be pulling to the right. It very will could be that the wheel cylinders are bad.
As far ans the switches goes go I could have just wired them wrong..haha
Bad wiring....I know your pain. on my "perfectly" wired Avenger dash I wired 3 gauges incorrectly. I swapped the grounds and the senders. I was wondering why my tank was always empty and I had no oil pressure...duh!
Todays problem. I wired up the turn signals and turning them on left or right they act lick hazards. All the lights are flashing at once. I do have a hazard switch hooked up. Even more bizarre is when I turn on my headlights as the turn signals are on, the turn signals shut off.
What are you using for switches for your headlights, flasher, and blinkers?
How do you have them wired? Are you using 1 flasher or 2?
It does sound like a ground problem ( they light because they are pulling a ground from a normally neutral wire....do they appear dim?), but without knowing how you have them wired...especially the flashers..its hard to diagnose
Check each signal fixture to make certain there's a good ground. Like 48Flathead above said its probably one of the rears as they would have the dual element bulbs necessary to make this happen. Another cause may be if a bulb isn't installed properly or a dual element socket has a single element bulb crammed in.
"Todays problem. I wired up the turn signals and turning them on left or right they act lick hazards. All the lights are flashing at once. I do have a hazard switch hooked up. Even more bizarre is when I turn on my headlights as the turn signals are on, the turn signals shut off. "
In it you said you had a hazard switch. Thats why I was confused.
Sounds like it might be your blinker switch. Something is feeding all 4 of your blinkers. Power should go to your flasher, then from your flasher to the switch, then 1 wire from the switch for your two left blinkers and 1 wire for your two left.
Are your front lights both blinkers and parking lights? You could also possibly have a ground messed up. If you are using a common ground wire for the lights maybe you have that attached to a power source?
Electrical issues are really hard. My philosophy is to "follow the electrons". In this case I would first make sure that all 4 lights involved have good grounds. I would then make sure your blinker switch is wired correctly. Do you have a newer (rectangular) style or the old round style?
Well my Christmas present to myself was to drive the car to the gas station. What a rush..haha. I drove the 2 miles and I felt every bump along the way. The rattling coming from this car was just crazy. I know everything is bolted down (at least I think...lol) Please tell me this is not normal for these.
What was suppose to be a quick gas and go turned into me not being to leave for 30 minutes because everyone who pulled up to the store had to look at it and ask questions. I forgot how much I dislike that. Guess I should have not painted it bright green.
On the way back I started hearing another thumping noise coming from the rear right tire. As some of you might recall I had this issue a while back and it ended up being the spacer bolt. I wonder if it is backing out of the hole or something?
Check your fuse block...you may have a jumper wire that is connecting directly with your headlight hot wire or headlight/switch hot wire. The jumper wire is supposed to go to your indicator light & not to the headlight power source. Since the 2 contact points are right next to each other(on the fuse block)...it is a common error to have the jumper wire on the wrong connection. The brake lights need to be wired on an isolated circuit(ignition switch direct power)(ground wire should also be isolated)...only the nightime running lights, should be connected with your headlights. Although, I have included my turn signals/running lights/tail lights...on a common circuit.
I have wired my Invader GT in a very unique way. When I use my headlights...my turn signals both light up , until I use my turn signal toggle switch...then only the desired turn signal is lit up & flashing. Even my horn is connected to a durable toggle switch. I am going to use my horn button on my steering wheel, to flash my lights rapidly. It will connect to a double flasher. This will allow me to let slower cars know I am coming up on them, while racing on the track. I have not wired this yet...but I will soon. I also have a toggle switch for my electric fuel pump(very important to be able to shut it off..in case of an accident). The electric fuel pump must never be connected to the ignition switch or direct power source.
k1286: need to find body parts (gull wing doors and rear glass) for early Bradley gt, just bought this car and need help finding a source for parts
Oct 1, 2016 17:17:48 GMT -5
kitcarguy: You have to make them yourself . They are not available anymore
Oct 4, 2016 15:51:03 GMT -5
skip20: Pictures would help alot!!
Oct 5, 2016 11:17:36 GMT -5
rangerxp: I have one of your Ranger Xp's in Chico! Please reply
Oct 17, 2016 18:32:05 GMT -5
kitcarguy: What Rangerxp?
Nov 4, 2016 20:28:59 GMT -5
dx1: Just bought gt2 HOw do I know what year it is and is there an id # on the body anywhere?
Jan 6, 2017 15:44:31 GMT -5
kitcarguy: dx1 There is no way to tell what year the body is. The Dataplate (if there is one) will not give you any useful info.
Jan 10, 2017 12:13:18 GMT -5
leglehookr: does someone have an idea for a door lift replacement? I dont really care for the originals.
May 1, 2017 23:44:11 GMT -5
manwithplan: where is the serial number located on a gt2?
Jun 6, 2017 13:20:54 GMT -5
kitcarguy: Hey manwithplan mine were both in the battery area in the rear of the car (behind right tail light) If yours does not have one not to worry, they do not mean anything lol
Jun 12, 2017 14:39:09 GMT -5