So I did go look at it and ended up getting it for a better price. It does have the doors, they were both cracked. Rear window is missing. I am in Florida so I am really not concerned with the doors at this point. Front windshield is ok
Body is solid, pan looked good from underneath but I will know more when the body comes off. It is said that the motor needs a fuel pump, but at this point I am assuming it will not run. The interior is all tore up.
I do think its a good start. I am going to gut the interior this week and start the process of removing the body.
I have changed the title to reflect the rebuild I am going to do to the car. I started today by tearing out all of the old interior, removing the headlights and tail lights, and started unbolting the body.
I want to get this body off the car today and I was curious what you guys use to place the body on to work on it? I really want something that I can wheel in and out of the garage while sanding and such.
I have used this rig for a couple of cars. It started out alot taller and wider to fit the chassis under the car, but as my shop space grew it got shorter and narrower. You can make just a box in the dimensions of the car out of 2x4 (or maybe 4x4) and add some coaster wheels (Harbor Freight) to wheel it around.
When it first started out the bottom of the horizontal 2x6's were just taller than the height of the top of the fan shroud of the motor. My guess is that each 4x4" post was 4 feet tall. I say that cause I probably was to cheap to buy any more than 4 of them (Two 8 foot 4x4's for the post and the two 8 foot 4x4s that run horizontally)
The only issue with that height was it was tough to get to the top of the car for sanding or painting. I would say they are now 2-3 feet tall. It is still easy to wire the car, easy for me to get up and sand the top, and easy to reach while painting.
So I guess it depends on your height. Figure out how high you want to reach, deduct the height of the body, and thats the top of your cart. Then deduct the size of the wheels you are going to use to get your overall height of each leg.
Mine also bolts together to store on the wall while not in use.
Regarding the EMPI kit here is why I think it SUCKS: 1. It uses the old style ceramic fuses. They don't stay in their holders well. Why anyone would still use those style fuses i todays day and age is beyond me. 2. The wires attach to the fuse block by inserting a stripped end into a hole and crushing a screw into it to hold it in place. Too tight and you crack the wire and you develop heat and shorts. Too loose and th wire can vibrate out. And it won't vibrate out while your in your driveway. Oh no...it will vibrate out in the middle of a very busy intersection. 3. The wire quality sucks. 4. There is't enough wire for you to even come close to wiring your project. Not even close at all. 5. The wire is not marked along its length for the circuit you are running. With so many low cost alternatives that have this feature available I can't imagine anyone even considering it. 6. After your brakes and steering the wiring is the most important part of the build. Poorly done it will leave you stranded. In all the cars I have done the 1 universal thing that was always done poorly was the wiring. How many pictures of cars on this site have you seen with butchered wiring? There is a reason for that. If you can't afford an additional $100 for wiring yo should not b building a car. Build a nice planter. Build a nice fire pit for your house, but don't be building a car that your life, and the life of others will depend upon.
To avoid hijacking this lengthy thread, The following message also appears in a new thread: "EZ 12-Circuit Wiring Harness." Please respond in the new thread so we don't step on kitkarguy's action.
The EZ wire harness you posted looks good for my Fiberfab MG-TD, but I have some questions.
1. Are the quick disconnects at the ends already in place or are they supplied separately so you can cut each wire to an appropriately correct length?
2. I'll assume by your negatives regarding the JCW wire that the EZ wire is of good-to-excellent quality. Correct?
3. How about the connectors? Today's quick disconnects and ring connectors from most auto stores and parts houses are soft, not at all like the quality connectors that were on the original GT harness. Soft quick disconnects, even without excessive on-off repetition, tend to loosen and can eventually disconnect on their own. Are the EZ connectors marine quality, or at least any better than the run-of-the-mill contemporary auto parts cheese?
4. It seems the EZ is based on the typical forward-mounted engine. Any problem for a VW setup?
5. Finally, does that paperwork at the left of the image include a wiring manual? I was planning to build my own harness for the MG by using a combination of the Bradley GT wiring manual and the Fiberfab manual. Fiberfab's manual is a pain-in-the-ass maze, and over 36 years, I have found my 1976 GT wiring schematic to be 100 percent functional and reliable. If a schematic is included with the EZ kit, what is your personal experience with following it, and how would you rate its functionality? In addition to all the stock components, the TD's only extras will be windshield wipers and washers, a "warm-up" AM radio and an ooh-gah horn. Twelve circuits should be more than enough.
Thanks, ace. You comments and experience are always appreciated.
Last Edit: Jun 11, 2011 10:22:54 GMT -5 by Jeff Troy
k1286: need to find body parts (gull wing doors and rear glass) for early Bradley gt, just bought this car and need help finding a source for parts
Oct 1, 2016 17:17:48 GMT -5
kitcarguy: You have to make them yourself . They are not available anymore
Oct 4, 2016 15:51:03 GMT -5
skip20: Pictures would help alot!!
Oct 5, 2016 11:17:36 GMT -5
rangerxp: I have one of your Ranger Xp's in Chico! Please reply
Oct 17, 2016 18:32:05 GMT -5
kitcarguy: What Rangerxp?
Nov 4, 2016 20:28:59 GMT -5
dx1: Just bought gt2 HOw do I know what year it is and is there an id # on the body anywhere?
Jan 6, 2017 15:44:31 GMT -5
kitcarguy: dx1 There is no way to tell what year the body is. The Dataplate (if there is one) will not give you any useful info.
Jan 10, 2017 12:13:18 GMT -5
leglehookr: does someone have an idea for a door lift replacement? I dont really care for the originals.
May 1, 2017 23:44:11 GMT -5
manwithplan: where is the serial number located on a gt2?
Jun 6, 2017 13:20:54 GMT -5
kitcarguy: Hey manwithplan mine were both in the battery area in the rear of the car (behind right tail light) If yours does not have one not to worry, they do not mean anything lol
Jun 12, 2017 14:39:09 GMT -5