Post by entyceingvws on Feb 13, 2017 11:32:26 GMT -5
I am the proud new owner of a GT2. It was delivered 2 days ago. I havent done much with it but start it...I do a lot of VW aircooled body/rust work and took this on trade for doing body work on a Karmann Ghia. 3 Ghais, 3 Bay Window Buses, 1 88 Vanagon...Working on a Subaru SVX EG33 Motor/trans in a 70 Ghia...Mid Engine...and now this...so not much going on.
The GT2 seems quite complete...Needless to say I am learning a lot...A couple curiosities:
1. How well do the doors fit from Factory? Are they known to need edges trimmed to fit the opening? Or is it bad or misaligned hinges or a combination...?
2. Any passenger side roof and large door glass? Both of these are broken. Or any DIY fixes like Plexiglass...?
3. I saw a post about cooling tin..."hot/cold side"(?) and Im guessing that the factory didnt make any to seal the engine?
I have a pic but it is not good...too many shadows from early morning sun and still need to figure out your pic posting system.
Post by Gary Hammond on Feb 13, 2017 19:22:34 GMT -5
Welcome to the Bradly GT forum. Sounds like you have lots of VW experience. We would all enjoy seeing pictures of your new ride! To post pics they have to exist somewhere else on the internet and they can then be linked to.
To answer some of your questions:
1. The doors can get badly out of alignment due to "butt sag". This is a chronic problem with the GT II. It can be remedied with slowly applied pressure and extra support. Do a site search for "butt sag" on this forum. There have been a lot of posts about it!
2. Bob Evans had some side glass for sale a couple of years ago and maybe some door glass as well. Don't know if he has any left or not. I think some people have used plexiglass. There have been several posts on this as well.
3. To the best of my knowledge, the kit didn't include anything to seal the engine with. Most people have just fabricated their own baffles to seal against the original VW tin work. There are also some posts on this subject.
There is a wealth of information on this forum that can be quickly accessed with the search feature.
Post by entyceingvws on Feb 13, 2017 21:40:06 GMT -5
Thanks Gary! Ill check out the topics. So if I have my pics on "The Samba" then I can link to that? I dont story my photos anywhere other than on my Computer.
Had a little setback today. The guy I got it from said "it had a leak...but what vw doesnt" I started it up and it sounds good. I left it running while I tinkered with it and within 6-10 minutes of Idle the quart of oil I put in before I started it...had leaked out. I told the guy and he has really spent no time with the car..He got a 2 for 1 deal and the GT2 did not get any attention. I crawled underneath and I am hoping it is the rear main seal.
The car still has the original tires...10k on the odometer. Based on what appears to be limited miles...I am hoping that the rear main had dried up...so to speak...See what happens..
Are the GT's as difficult to get in and out of as the GT2? Im guessing there is a better way...but man...what a hassle...Lol
Post by Gary Hammond on Feb 13, 2017 23:04:23 GMT -5
The GT is a little more difficult to get in and out of because the sides are a little higher off the ground and are not level!
Don't know what you are calling the "rear main" seal. The crankshaft has a lip seal only on the front of the engine under the flywheel. The pulley end (rear of engine) doesn't have a lip seal, only threaded grooves in the pulley and a close tolerance fit that is supposed to "screw" the oil back into the engine unless someone has installed an aftermarket "sand seal pulley".
As the rings and main bearings become worn it is not uncommon for oil leakage around the pulley. Blow-by can also cause oil to exit through the breather tube if it has one. And the paper gaskets between the crankcase and cylinder jugs frequently blow out and let oil leak out while the engine is running. The O-rings on the oil cooler are also a common source for oil leaks as are the valve cover gaskets and cylinder head to jug mating surface. Stock engines have no head gasket.
Felpro has a gasket set that has every seal you could ever need for the engine and some I still don't know what there for... wicked cheap like$15 takes a weekend to pull strip re-seal re-install and I'm pretty slow...have fun I know I do
Post by entyceingvws on Feb 17, 2017 19:03:05 GMT -5
Thanks. I am in Utah.
Learning a lot and setting plans in motion. I dont like the gel coat heavy metallic paint so if I keep it, Ill do something in red or yellow and keep as much of the black moldings as clean as possible (no paint or over spray). The body has never been hit and the paint is original but extremely faded...
I dont like the narrow OEM alloy turbine rims...they fit too far inside the wheel well. I would like to do a wider rear rim, maybe in the 5 slot look. Do most people keep the OEM VW 4 lugs or do they use adapters like Ford or Chev 5 lugs? The rear wheel well stick out quite far and is a shame to not have something that makes the stance a lot more aggressive.
Lots of projects so wont be working on it fast..even though its my closest car to a daily driver...
I asked a question earlier about pics being posted on "The Samba", which is what I have linked to but how do pics get posted directly on these posts?
My main project is my 70 Mid Engine Ghia with Subaru 6 cylinder and FWD trans...For you experienced in this forum...Is it best to continue adding to this post or simply make new posts...? I guess I should start a Build page?
Everything is up to personal preference and how much money you want to spend. I am keeping my turbine wheels and keeping it 4 lug. I will ad a spacer to the wheels with extended lug nuts to push them out a bit more. When you spend money on something like rims you are not going to get that back when you sell the car.